TBD is the new Union Square restaurant that joins together chefs Ray Lee and Tommy Cleary: Lee is the mind behind Akikos, an upscale sushi restaurant that moved to the East Cut on Folsom Street, while Cleary ran Hina Yakitori, his omakase restaurant in NoPa that closed in 2023. TBD is a combination of both their skills, leaning on Cleary for his yakitori experience and Lee for izakaya-style dishes. Together, they’ve settled into the former Akikos space at 431 Bush Street, upgraded from its days when Akikos was run by Lee’s parents in 1987. The result of their partnership? An izakaya that zips between modern and traditional, from karaage featuring an SF-coded fried chicken claw to a yakimono set with bites of offal grilled over binchotan.
TBD feels like the type of place where you can go with a tight group of friends or cozy up to the counter on a date. That counter takes up a majority of the space, but it’s an excellent spot to perch and watch the action in the kitchen. Two tables up front offer views of the street for parties of four, while the back of the restaurant feels more intimate with tables for two. Handsome wood accents throughout the restaurant give the space a luxe feel.
The drinks menu offers just sake and beer, leaning heavily into Japan-made products. There are just three craft beers on offer, made by Kizakura Brewery in Kyoto and Echigo Beer Co. in Niigata. The sake list, meanwhile, includes four categories of sake to choose from by the bottle or glass (junmai, ginjo, junmai daiginjo, and junmai ginjo). Ask for a recommendation if you’re not sure what to order, but I had a lovely junmaji ginjo from Sohomare Brewery in the Tochigi region of Japan.
You’ll be tempted to skip dessert if you ordered correctly (read: a lot), but this is where I tell you to leave room for dessert. The hojicha tiramisu feels decadent but not too heavy at the same time, with the subtle roasted flavor that hojicha imparts to food. It’s a great way to end the night as your party figures out how to split the bill.
TBD is the spot to get an elegant meal of Japanese snacks in a space that feels very IYKYK. Given its roots in Akikos and Hina, it will likely be a hotspot for fans of Lee’s and Cleary’s food, especially now that this is the only place to experience Cleary’s yakitori. The place also does away with the skewers for the most part, meaning easy bites of chicken skin or gizzards without the stick.