There may not be a more expensive — or ambitious — restaurant in Los Angeles than Somni, a Spanish-inflected tasting menu from Aitor Zabala. Relocated to West Hollywood in late 2024, Somni earned three Michelin stars last year as a validation of Zabala’s complete vision — one formulated over years of working at Spain’s celebrated El Bullí, under José Andrés at minibar in D.C., and at the Bazaar in Los Angeles. The experience now involves a single seating that starts with dinner in a shaded patio, where the team whisks in multiple snacks and a beverage before everyone gets seated in a semi-circle configuration overlooking the main stage.
Indeed, like theater, Somni feels as much about presentation and pageantry. Multiple cooks gather to serve each course of a 20-course dinner simultaneously. But the food remains intricate and winsome, full of trompe l’oeils and delightful misdirections. As recent events surrounding a certain Los Angeles residency have raised questions about the sustainability of fine dining and the treatment of workers in high-stakes, high price-tag environments, Somni’s relative transparency introduces the notion of equity (since the dozen or so cooks also serve diners, they also take home a substantial amount of the gratuity).
Those saving up for a celebratory meal, but not necessarily one that feels especially romantic: you eat alongside 13 other people, which means conversations won’t feel private. (And since you’re sitting side-by-side, it’s not the kind of place where you’re going to propose or drop big news.) Any group larger than three is going to feel awkward unless you sit in the exorbitantly priced private dining room. Consider Somni the place to mark a momentous occasion or reward oneself for a job well done — there aren’t a lot of dinners of this caliber on the West Coast.
Each reservation requires a $600 per person deposit and requires a beverage pairing. The $745 for a non-alcoholic pairing doesn’t include tax or tip, which means the lowest price of entry is just under $1,000. The $785 blended non-alcoholic and wine pairing is a happy medium of thoughtful wines with freshly mixed NA cocktails, and is my personal recommendation.
Years ago, Los Angeles chased out the Michelin Guide and staunchly reveled in a more casual, less worldly approach to fine dining. Over time, the city reimmersed itself and has become home to multiple world-class dining destinations such as Kato, Hayato, Providence, and Ki. Somni stands in the highest tier of refined — and expensive — restaurants in Los Angeles, worthy of its accolades for delivering one of the most rarified and special dining experiences in town.
In a complete rebirth, former two-Michelin-star restaurant Somni has opened in a new West Hollywood location under chef Aitor Zabala. Somni occupies a cloistered set of buildings just north of Santa Monica Boulevard serving precise Spanish-inflected modernist tasting menus to a rounded duet of countertops. The high-ceiling space acts as a theater of sorts to Zabala’s kitchen crew, assembling dashi meringue fish topped with Astrea caviar or escabeche mussels dressed with borage flowers. Expect every flavorful turn to be delightful, especially for the sky-high $495 price that will inevitably feel justified after experiencing perhaps the most innovative meal in Los Angeles. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest