The windswept, wave-pummelled crescent of sand at Laguna Beach’s unequalled bolthole of understated glam, Surf & Sand — a former hideaway for heyday silver screen stars and current place to bunk for this decade’s casually affluent — appears to be a secret beach just for guests. And, yet, as part of California’s coastline, it’s open to the public, though lounge chairs, waiter conveyed food service and direct hotel access happen only for those holding hotel keys.
On a recent visit to tony Surf & Sand as a solo traveler, I reminisced about the time I stayed with my family at the hotel, and how we had staked out our parcel of sand on the beach with towels, shovels and buckets. Immediately, we were approached by another guest, who complained we’d taken his small bit of real estate, the one his family occupied daily on their annual two visits to the property. Not knowing what else to do, we apologized and moved to the left a few feet, only to be thanked by grateful staff who knew the sand belonged to nobody, but were happy we’d not joined a fight. After all, it was only a matter of a few feet. We spent all day happy where we were — hypnotized by the waves’ rhythmic symphony, looking for dolphins and building sandcastles.
In gratitude for our compliance, staff at Surf & Sand delivered some snacks, a generous but unnecessary gesture. For us, the joy was in being at this unpretentious, historic destination hotel, where rooms sit so close to the sea they seem suspended in air.
Refurbished and re-polished, but well within its original footprint and helmed by affable locals who have been on staff for decades, Surf & Sand lies a short walk from the city’s best shops and eateries. Its new open-air, open-view lobby, set just above the waves, has a flying carpet effect, while masterworks by the likes of Dale Chihuly and a curated collection of prominent local artists anchor the hotel’s overall barefoot-elegant design. Mirroring Laguna Beach’s raison d’etre, Surf & Sand’s unabashed, elegant artiness and homage to creativity plays to the city’s ethos and leitmotif. A pool overlooks the beach, as does buzzy Splashes Bar, the ideal place for a sunset. Splashes Restaurant serves innovative, newly riffed coastal cuisine, mixing modern spin options with some popular menu mainstays from the past — think the best tableside lobster bisque of your life. When not on the beach or exploring Laguna Beach’s bounty, guests unwind at the full-service Aquaterra Spa.
As much a compelling artwork as the pieces found in its almost 100 galleries, Laguna Beach itself unfurls along 7 miles of bluff-hewed coastline in southwestern Orange County. It’s situated about halfway between San Diego and Los Angeles, a stunning, bungalow-dotted bit of nostalgic hideaway, suffused with a tranquil vibe. Rimmed by the Pacific Ocean and its rugged coves on one side, the city’s bulk stretches toward and climbs up steep hills in the opposite direction. The town occupies a kind of flowing bowl of beach-y terrain that winds all the way south to Dana Point. For more than a century, artists have waxed poetic about Laguna Beach’s distinctive, soft light. It casts a rosy hue in fall and winter, softly illuminating the coast and ocean in golden tones the rest of the year. This richness and variety drew creatives from painters to writers, who settled here, building a community fueled by the pursuit of aesthetics and a reverence for nature. Today, this upscale artists’ colony feels posh, but accessible—it’s hip, but earthy, and utterly original.
Spend time with the family poolside or enjoy wine and dinner at a swanky beachfront restaurant when visiting Laguna Beach.
Almost storybook with village-like appeal, the walkable downtown abounds with boutiques, restaurants and galleries. Within view, the Main Beach is its hallmark, a briny-aired piece-de-resistance, rimmed by a grassy lawn, enlivened by painters, volleyball players, surfers, children in motion and sun worshippers. Come join the fray.
Where to Stay
Surf & Sand: A beacon of oceanfront luxury so near the waves it blurs the line between land and sea. Intimate and convivial, it’s full of historical gravitas and modern artistic elan. Its Splashes Restaurant is a local icon.
Montage Laguna Beach: Seafront, on 30 acres, it boasts arts & craft-style structures in keeping with the Laguna Beach spirit. Buzzy, it has multiple pools and restaurants and a huge spa.
The Ranch at Laguna Beach: Offering a different viewpoint, this canyon-sited hotel (across the street from the beach) has a nine-hole golf course, farm-to-table dining and offers a variety of eco-activities.
Where to Eat
Nick’s Laguna Beach: A local favorite for elevated American food. Fish sandwiches, bacon-deviled eggs and asparagus fries seal the deal.
Las Brisas: This is Mexican food with a SoCal twist. You’ll sip margaritas with wahoo crudo, halibut veracruz or chicken mole enchiladas. Perched on a cliff with sea views, it’s an all-day oasis.
Selanne Steak Tavern: A date night-level spot in an historic home on Pacific Coast Highway, this award-winner has a 3,000-bottle wine list to pair with the truffle butter and bordelaise sauce that accompanies all steaks.
Where to Shop
Amenah: Channeling Laguna’s art-centric ways, this clever women-owned shop features its own size-inclusive clothing line. They partner with local artists.
Merrilee’s Swimwear Boutique: A mother-daughter duo design and hand-make all their suits, and the store is a smorgasbord of possibilities.
The Shop at Laguna Beach: Surf meets fashion at this stylish shop with 100% SoCal vibes.
Art Experiences
Plan your trip to include the First Thursdays Art Walk, an electric event where 40 or more galleries open their doors to entice you downtown. Enjoy from 6 to 9 p.m.
Take Laguna Beach’s self-guided Public Art Tour, which points out more than 100 pieces of art from statues to benches.
Guests staying at Surf & Sand can hold a glass of wine aloft on a concierge-guided tour of its curated art collection.
Other Places to Visit and Things To Do
• Hop on the free Laguna Beach Trolley.
• Go whale- or dolphin-spotting with Capt. Dave’s Dolphin & Whale Watching Safari
• Take Instagram photos at Treasure Island Park, near the Montage Hotel.
• Hike or drive to Top of the World for the views.
• Enjoy Thousand Steps Beach for its sea caves and tidepools.