The Korean barbecue scene in Los Angeles has seen some new players in the higher end genre (AB Steak and Daedo come to mind), but Seogwan by Yellow Cow is potentially the most compelling. Essentially a Koreatown outpost of Gardena’s Yellow Cow Korean Barbecue, owner Monica Kim partnered with hallowed Seoul-based noodle shop Seogwan to bring true-to-style Pyongyang naengmyeon to Los Angeles. The duo of cold North Korean buckwheat noodles with upscale Korean barbecue has certainly resonated with Angelenos as Seogwan packs in crowds nightly for well-marbled slices of galbi, halmoni-worthy banchan, and unmissable side dishes in a sleek dining room. Expect to shell out a significant amount for the experience — at least $100 per person — but it’s arguably more affordable than a flight to Seoul.
Korean barbecue aficionados who want to escape the bustle of Park’s BBQ or graduate from all-you-can-eat spots; hot days when the prospect of cold noodle soup sounds like the ideal relief; work dinners where everyone’s going to get loose with soju, beer, and grilled beef.
Budget seekers should come to Seogwan for lunch when naengmyeon and single-meat combinations get priced between $28 and $38. The crispy mung bean pancake is one of the best versions of this classic dish in Los Angeles. There’s no dedicated kids’ menu, but most children will gobble up the onban ($20) — warm rice in a large bowl of soup with either tender pork or beef slices on top.
Los Angeles’s Korean barbecue situation has been fairly stagnant the last few years, but Seogwan by Yellow Cow injects energy with impressive Pyongyang naengmyeon and prime-grade beef cooked tableside, plus a rotating parade of seasonal banchan that makes this a worthy addition to Koreatown’s restaurant scene.