Kevin Liang and Michael Yang, two former New Yorkers who met while working at Han Dynasty, are behind Highland Park’s Mala Class, a jewel-box-sized restaurant serving chile-spiked Sichuan cooking. Inside the dark mint–green building, find a bare-bones dining room accented by red tile, a handful of tables that remain busy through lunch and dinner, and enough plants to make the interior feel like a greenhouse. The kitchen quickly turns out Sichuan peppercorn–dusted wings and numbing mapo tofu, as well as other Sichuan classics, all for under $20. Mala Class isn’t trying to rival Chengdu Taste and similar icons; it succeeds as the best affordable neighborhood option for those looking for some serious heat closer to Highland Park.

Sip on a can of Wong Lo Kat, a Chinese herbal tea known for its cooling properties, or order a pot of hot tea that gets steeped tableside.

The heat level of any dish on the menu can be modified. Try it as-is on your first visit, before asking for a little more or less spice.