Wilde’s — the intimate new British-inspired spot in Los Feliz — might be the closest thing Los Angeles has to a countryside pub dropped straight onto Hillhurst Avenue. Lifelong friends Natasha Price (chef) and Tatiana Ettensberger (wine) set out to build the kind of place where you could settle in for a long chat, a glass of “something good,” and food that’s filling and pleasantly low-maintenance. The dining room is small, wood-paneled, and softly lit; the service feels warm in a way that’s increasingly rare in Los Angeles. The whole place already hums with neighborhood-haunt energy despite its newness. It’s a welcome break from the ring-light-influencer parts of Los Angeles’s dining scene — somewhere you can sip a funky orange wine, eat headcheese, and briefly pretend you’re an ocean away.

A wine-fueled dinner with your friend where you can catch up and actually hear each other; an evening of escapism from Los Angeles’s bright-lights vibes; a second date that calls for a romantic, unpretentious setting.

Even showing up before the 5:30 p.m. opening can mean a wait of two hours or more. Luckily, you’re right across from Ye Rustic Inn, the divey neighborhood standby (and temple of chicken wings), where you can ride out the wait with a beer or cocktail (Wilde’s is beer-and-wine only). The restaurant just began to roll out a daytime café menu, which means pastries, sausage rolls, and more opportunities for seating.