When Sayat and Laura Ozylimaz opened Dalida in the Presidio, there was plenty of earned hype. The power couple’s restaurant is a sweeping statement on Mediterranean possibilities: sometimes that means gastronomic renditions on cioppino, sometimes simmering cups of pistachio coffee. This is no write-up to pretend the high-end, Top Chef-approved palace has not been given its due. Rather, it’s to say that more than two years later, the restaurant’s stronger than ever.

Dalida feels as stately inside as it does outside: Picture old-school brick paired with waves of green thanks to the the Presidio’s Main Parade Lawn. The ambiance here is not low-key, nor is the clientele. (I dropped by in shorts and felt pretty stupid.) Dress to impress and act right.

There’s rarely open tables at Dalida. Fortunately, there’ll usually be a seat or two on the outdoor patio. If not, look for a seat at the bar — you might wait 10 to 15 minutes, but then you’ll get top-tier service from the small army of service staff.