Devils on the door, gargoyles on the roof, a cloaked skeleton on the patio, and black octopus spinning on a grisly trompo: nobody commits to the bit like metalheads, and chefs Alex and Elvia García may be the most metal chefs in Los Angeles. At Evil Cooks, their earnest embrace of an aesthetic vision is deeply satisfying. And the food fucking shreds. The Garcías kick out face-melting riffs on taqueria standards; it’s a menu stacked with bar after bar of blast beats from a diminutive, deeply personal pop-up turned restaurant in El Sereno.

The Hell Menu (the Garcías stay on message) is for omnivores; the Heaven Menu caters to vegetarians. Many dishes can also be made vegan upon request.

Provided they can rock with the metal soundtrack (as they should), this is a good spot for kids. There’s a ton of fun decor on the patio, and dishes like the aforementioned McSatan or the straightforward mulita can easily be modified to suit younger palates.