Watching a chef sear meats and vegetables over a roaring hearth is a dramatic sight. At Dunsmoor in Glassell Park, former Hatchet Hall chef Brian Dunsmoor does this every night. The Northeast Los Angeles restaurant opened in 2022 and remains a popular stop for diners who appreciate Dunsmoor’s commitment to lesser-known preservation, fire techniques, and live coals, which began at his former rotating pop-up series, Fuss and Feathers. The action takes place within his stunning restaurant on Eagle Rock Boulevard, where high ceilings, massive windows, and candlelight are the backdrop for satisfying bluefin tuna toast or Pennsylvania Dutch dumplings prepared with chicken, ham, and beet-pickled egg.
It seems impossible, but every seat is ideal at Dunsmoor. Dining at the bar is always a wonderful experience. The team works hard from behind the line, which is visible from the dining area. Long tables might place one very close to a neighbor, leading to conversations with new people.
Try to book a reservation slightly before sunset. The west-facing room changes moods as the night sky takes hold, and is worth witnessing with a glass of wine and a good dining partner. If the burger special is available, order it.