New York restaurant Hojokban has opened in the Arts District amid a general wave of upscale Korean food in Los Angeles. Hojokban’s space conjures a dim, intimate Seoul hangout but with high ceilings and a generous layout that one wouldn’t find in the bustling Korean capital. That dash of industrial cool amid the ornate traditional decor illustrates Hojokban’s approach to Korean cuisine: familiar but undeniably new. A trio of kimchi comes in small golden bowls, regal and elegant, each banchan properly fermented and piquant. The kitchen is still buttoning up a few seasonings and sauces, but if cool young Korean Americans make this their new hangout, Hojokban might become one of the tougher tables to get in the Arts District.
Save room for Hojokban’s viral companion doughnut shop Cafe Knotted for sugar-dusted, milk cream–filled fritters ready for your Instagram feed.
The portions won’t be as generous as you’ll find in Koreatown, as things are sized for snacky sharing, but one jeon for every two people, or gim rice order per person, will help complete each meal.