The intersection of Avenue 51 and York is the epicenter of modern Highland Park, thanks in no small part to the opening of Joy in 2018. From its brick corner storefront, Joy anchors the neighborhood with the same casual, contemporized Taiwanese cooking that’s been a hit at its sister Silver Lake restaurant, Pine & Crane, but with subtle differences. What you lose in beef rolls and three cup chicken, you gain in clamshell buns, sesame bread, and thousand-layer pancakes. Chef Vivian Ku grew up in Bakersfield on her family’s farm, where they harvested a variety of Asian vegetables that she honors with heaping piles of garlicky sauteed pea shoots and gai lan. This amounts to an easy weeknight staple, but the funky list of beer and wine make it a worthwhile weekend event.
This is a counter-service, metal chopsticks on the table, grab-your-own water situation, but the line snaking out the door each night proves that while the experience isn’t fussy, the food is worth the fuss.
The fluffy scallion bread they use to make their sandwiches can be bought by the loaf to take home. If you see it offered on the chalkboard menu, grab it.