Conductor Gustavo Dudamel’s last season at Disney Hall and world-class cuisine are a classical one-two punch
LOS ANGELES, CA – MAY 2, 2024: Gustavo Dudamel returns after three months to conduct the LA Philharmonic at the Walt Disney Concert Hall on May 2, 2024 in Los Angeles, California.(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times via Getty Images)
Los Angeles Times via Getty Images
On a clear Los Angeles evening, the kind that convinces hardened New Yorkers that winter is a rumor invented by coat companies, downtown reveals its most persuasive argument for cultural relevance: music, food, and a sense that the city – long accused of being all sprawl and no center – has finally learned how to gather itself. I’ve been here for four decades and am still astounded by its rebound and restoration.
My downtown destination of choice is Walt Disney Concert Hall, the late Frank Gehry’s stainless-steel crescendo, rising like a 3-D symphony unto itself. There are buildings you admire and buildings you experience and Disney Hall belongs squarely in the latter category. Its silvery curves beckon you to experience the LA Philharmonic, arguably the most forward-thinking major orchestra in America. Under Music Director Gustavo Dudamel’s enduring influence, the Phil has become less museum and more living organism – restless, curious and decidedly global.
Sadly, this is the maestro’s last season in LA before taking leave to lead the New York Philharmonic, while veteran Esa-Pekka Salonen takes over as creative director locally. “Salonen is a transformational artist whose vision helped shape the LA Phil into what it has become today,” announced CEO and President Kim Noltemy this past September. The search for a new Music Director is ongoing.
An eyeful and an earful: inside Disney Hall
LOS ANGELES, CA – MAY 5: Exterior view of the Desney Concert Hall on May 5, 2017 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Santi Visalli/Getty Images)
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I attended a few recent concerts at Disney Hall, including a stunning, Dudamel-led reading of Gustav Mahler’s “Resurrection” symphony, one of the composer’s most dramatic and cinematic scores. Inside, the hall filled with a particular downtown mix: longtime subscribers in evening wear, younger Angelenos treating Mahler with the same seriousness they once reserved for warehouse DJ sets, and the quietly affluent patrons for whom culture is less an event than a lifestyle maintenance ritual. The acoustics are famously democratic – every seat feels close enough to count breaths – and when the orchestra begins, the pulsing city outside seems to pause, if but briefly.
The 17th and last season of the world’s most celebrated conductor affords “an opportunity for us to convey our immense gratitude for everything Gustavo has done,” said Noltemy, “and continues to do, to uplift our great city through music.” Mark your calendars for any or all of his upcoming concerts (but don’t tarry, as tickets will be scarce), including Wagner’s Die Walküre, John Adams’s Harmonium and world premieres of two Puerto Rican composers, Angelica Negron and Roberto Sierra, again demonstrating Il Maestro’s support for long-ignored global redoubts of serious music.
LOS ANGELES – OCTOBER 17: At one of the most popular eateries in Los Angeles, a sous chef sprinkles parmigiano reggiano cheese onto pasta during preparation at Bestia Restaurant in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Melina Mara/The Washington Post via Getty Images)
The Washington Post via Getty ImagesIf food be the music of life, eat on!
But downtown LA is not a place you visit for one reason alone. The Philharmonic may be the anchor, but the night is built around what comes before or after the final note has sounded. A few blocks away, dinner at Bestia remains a near-mandatory pilgrimage. Years after its debut, the industrial Italian landmark still pulses with energy. The room is loud in a deliberate way – brick walls, open kitchen, a cool and elegant clientele. The food is precise without being precious: house-cured charcuterie, blistered wood-fired pizzas and innovative pasta like Cavatelli alla Norcina (ricotta dumplings with shaved truffles and pork sausage). Bestia’s genius has always been its refusal to age into nostalgia.
P.S., discerning downtown carnivores also flock to H&H Brazilian Steakhouse for Wagyu A5 steaks and prime beef short ribs for supper, or stop in for their all-day happy hour for amazing wings, onion rings and beef empanadas, a great pre-concert spot for a cold caipirinha and hot appetizers. Maravilhoso!
For those seeking something sleek, San Laurel at the Conrad offers a Mediterranean counterpoint with a distinctly California accent. Chef José Andrés’ influence is evident in the confidence of the menu – e.g., a fennel soup with Dungeness crab — but the execution is tuned to Los Angeles sensibilities: lighter, cleaner, seasonal. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the city like a set piece, reminding diners that downtown is no longer something you pass through – it’s somewhere you stay and play.
Perch LA —hipster haven and spectacular views
Perch LAAfter the music, potent potables and forever views
Post-Philharmonic, the night fractures into an embarrassment of options. Some head to the rooftop at Perch, where live jazz floats above the city grid and the Eiffel Tower replica glows convincingly enough after two drinks. Others drift toward the Arts District, where places like Bavel continue to blur the line between destination dining and neighborhood institution. Middle Eastern flavors are treated with reverence and imagination – slow-roasted meats, smoky vegetables, breads that arrive hot and disappear instantly.
What distinguishes downtown Los Angeles now is not any single restaurant or performance hall, but the choreography between them. This is a city that once demanded a car and a plan; downtown increasingly rewards spontaneity. You can walk. You can linger. You can decide, at 10:45 p.m., that dessert deserves its own venue. Or you can go gourmet/lowbrow and get a Burrito 2.0 at Sonoratown, open until 10 pm nightly. Muy sabroso, mijos!
A view of the city during evening, in Los Angeles on November 13, 2023. (Photo by Jakub Porzycki/NurPhoto via Getty Images)
NurPhoto via Getty Images
By the time the evening winds down—perhaps with an espresso at a late-night café or a quiet ride-share through streets that still hum—the impression lingers that downtown LA has finally solved its own riddle. Culture no longer needs to justify itself here, nor does dining pretend to be separate from it. The LA Philharmonic provides the score, the restaurants deliver the counterpoint, and the city fills in the rest. And oh yes, Viva Dudamel!