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Restaurant Review: Baby Bistro in Los AngelesIf you go to Baby Bistro in Los Angeles looking for steak au poivre and a squidgy French onion soup, you might be disappointed. But as Tejal Rao, a chief restaurant critic for The New York Times reports in her review, you will be presented with a slightly eccentric, seasonal style of food that you won’t find anywhere else.
This week, I wrote about Baby Bistro in Los Angeles. This is not a place to go to for steak frites and île flottante. It is a taste of Los Angeles, with a tiny singular menu of maybe six or seven dishes. That changes, according to Miles Thompson’s slightly eccentric seasonal style, which is really deliciously hard to categorize and which you can’t find anywhere else. I loved a recent dish of grilled prawns with fried enoki in this powerfully delicious tomato sauce, and an onion bread covered in whipped cheese and little coins of zucchini dripping in miso brown butter. Andy Schwartz has put together a list of natural wines from niche producers, and it really invites you in, both in terms of how it’s written with personal, sometimes abstract tasting notes and in terms of pricing. There’s something about the style of hospitality at Baby Bistro that feels genuine, intuitive, completely unscripted. You can read the full review on nytimes.com.
If you go to Baby Bistro in Los Angeles looking for steak au poivre and a squidgy French onion soup, you might be disappointed. But as Tejal Rao, a chief restaurant critic for The New York Times reports in her review, you will be presented with a slightly eccentric, seasonal style of food that you won’t find anywhere else.
By Nyt Food
October 20, 2025