Los Angeles does Old Hollywood well, but it rarely does it cheaply. Taylor’s Steak House in Koreatown is a notable exception: a red-vinyl-booth time capsule where you can cosplay midcentury glamor without spending triple digits or feeling weird about showing up in sneakers. (There is, technically, a dress code — an ominous little sign near the door simply reads “DRESS CODE,” offering no further guidance — but the reality inside feels delightfully unpretentious.)
Taylor’s has been around, in one form or another, since 1953, and it feels like very little has changed over the decades. The menu leans classic to the point of stubbornness: London broil, onion-topped steaks in multiple variations, French onion soup that arrives bubbling and unapologetically cheese-laden. You will know your server’s first name and can linger at your table longer than feels reasonable. Enjoy a small bottle of prosecco sent over by a mystery group of Italian men four tables over, as my dining companions and I did. In the steakhouse world, a genre of restaurant that can sometimes feel exclusive, Taylor’s endures for its affordability and warm atmosphere..
Consider the vibe both aspirational and come as you are. No reservation? If it’s a weeknight, probably no problem. Order a martini or a beer! Kick back and relax! Taylor’s remains the retro-kitsch spot for grabbing a well-cooked steak, a perfect shrimp cocktail, and an unfussy martini that will nonetheless be fun to sip on while you trade stories with friends.
Taylor’s has its own parking lot with a $5 valet — an almost surreal luxury in notoriously space-deprived Koreatown, where parking is typically a blood sport.