Scarlett Kapella, the multi-hyphenate visual artist and veteran Jumbo’s Clown Room dancer, knows her steaks. Raised in the Palm Springs area, her introduction to the genre came by way of the steakhouses that cater to weekend warrior golfers and silver foxes who prowl the Coachella Valley. “It’s always been a go-to for me when it comes to special occasion stuff,” Kapella says. “And then obviously when I started dating, I felt like that was the safe bet.”
After two decades in Los Angeles, Kapella now has her fair share of haunts across the Southland. She recalls late-night steaks at the now-closed Pacific Dining Car in Downtown Los Angeles and a former love affair with Musso and Frank Grill, which has since cooled. “I just remember kind of ending up [at Pacific Dining Car] at wee hours of the morning and sitting next to a sex worker–John duo, but then having the perfectly charred steak,” Kapella says. “I love all the family-style stuff. I really miss that place.”
Kapella’s career has long leaped across different facets of the hospitality industry. Outside of her work at Jumbo’s, where she performs under the stage name “Pantera,” Kapella is behind “Bitch! You Strippin’,” an ongoing photo project spotlighting dancers across the country. Kapella also used to host a pop-up stripper-infused dinner show called “Topless Tapas” with the late chef Jonathan Whitener. “There is a gap in the market when it comes to food and clubs, like strip clubs,” she says.
Kapella points to the Lodge, a Dallas strip club where dancers emerge from caves, as an example of how those worlds can meet. “If I worked there, I would come out dressed straight up as a cavewoman with a club,” she says. “They have the nicest steaks I’ve ever had in my life.” Most recently, Kapella published Wine Me, Dine Me, 69 Me, a cookbook that pairs recipes like Key lime pie with photos of the iconic dancers at Jumbo’s.
These days, you can find Kapella tucked into a red leather booth in a dim room, perched in front of a New York strip or filet mignon (cooked to medium) and no less than two-and-a-half dirty vodka martinis. “I’m such a briny bitch,” she says. “I love a good olive.”
Eater spoke to Kapella about her favorite steakhouses, ideal steak order, and why she thinks the genre remains so timeless. This interview has been edited for clarity and length.
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Rebecca Roland: What are your favorite steakhouses?
Scarlett Kapella: I’ve been really into the Venice Room in Monterey Park; it involves grilling your own steak. I like that place just because it’s so seedy and campy. I think they have karaoke almost every night, so there’s an element of entertainment. And then they have all those insane murals, presumably of Venice. There’s obviously a little bit of work involved in [grilling your own steak], and you have to really trust your skill. There’s nothing worse than buying something and then fucking it up yourself. It’s like sleeping next to your phone charger, but then your phone isn’t plugged in all night.
I also love Dear John’s in Culver City from start to finish. Their signage is so beautiful. I feel like it’s so dark in there, you can straight up murder someone and get away with it, which obviously comes in handy. They make the Caesar salads at your table, and they take it really seriously. I’m a basic bitch at heart. So any place that offers a perfect Caesar, I’m all in.
Venice Room, Dear John’s — those are almost like sister restaurants in my head. I know, obviously, they’re not, but depending on which side of town you’re on, I feel like it’s all that sexy red booth situation. If Jumbo’s were to have a steakhouse baby, it would maybe be one of those, either the D.I.Y. steak one or the Culver City Dear John’s.
A good classic place that works for business and pleasure would be Smoke House in Burbank: there are strong drinks, and it’s a good place to meet people for any sort of business meeting. And Fia Steak, that place is insane. Their tasting menu is so, so good. It still kind of has old Hollywood charm, but I feel like it’s a good modern twist on it. Everything on their menu is so good, almost foolproof.
The spread at Dear John’s. Wonho Frank Lee
Wonho Frank Lee
Wonho Frank Lee
What’s your ideal steakhouse order?
I don’t want to say I’m a basic bitch again, but I’m such a sucker for a wedge, a good wedge. I don’t want to say three dirty martinis, but definitely two and a half dirty martinis. If there’s blue cheese olive as an option, I’m always going to go for that. Any place that offers a Hugo spritz, that’s a perfect attitude adjustment. They taste like a Sprite; they go down so easy.
When it comes to cuts of steak, I always like a New York strip or, of course, the filet, but I’m such a sauce girly. If there’s a peppercorn sauce, then take my firstborn. That’s all I want in life, that peppercorn sauce. That’s kind of what I live for. I guess that would be my perfect meal — very lubed up with martinis or a Hugo spritz and a good peppercorn sauce.
Obviously, I order my steak medium. I grew up in a household that was very scorched earth when it came to cooking steaks, and I don’t know why that was. I had training wheels when it came to properly cooked steaks. Gordon Ramsay would call someone an idiot sandwich if they presented him with how cooked these steaks were. But now I’m to the point where I’m like, “Okay, I’m a medium girl.”
I think that every good outing would have to end with a nightcap at Jumbo’s with a dirty Shirley and watching Lola or Delilah dance to the Arctic Monkeys. That’s the perfect night for me. Steakhouse, nightcap at Jumbo’s, that’s it. (Editor’s note: Kapella also recommends bartender Michelle’s hot chocolate cookies, which can be served as a cookie tower for special occasions. “Throw your life savings at Lola, my favorite dancer and first jailhouse call,” she says.)
What should be on a steakhouse playlist?
A perfectly appetizing playlist, in my opinion, would be a melange of sexy deep cuts and familiar classics. When I launched Wine Me, my soundtrack was sprinkled with food and drink references like “I Need Lunch” by Dead Boys, “Spill the Wine” by Eric Burdon, “Peaches” by Stranglers, and “Ice Cream” by New Young Pony Club. Other chill dinner-friendly genres include ‘50s and ‘60s exotica and Japanese surf rock. As always, when in doubt, play Air!
Scarlett Kapella. Courtesy of Scarlett Kapella
What’s your favorite steakhouse booth in Los Angeles?
My favorite booth would be the darkest corner available (any lighting over 3200 Kelvin is unacceptable). Please seat me away from the swinging doors of the kitchen and out of earshot of a busser station.
How many olives do you get in your martini?
I’d say I’m a three olive girlie; two for me, one to share.
Why do you think steakhouses are so timeless?
I think there’s an element of comfort in a steakhouse. If I’m going to a steakhouse, I have an inkling of what the menu is going to offer. People really respect and love old Hollywood culture. We kind of want a place that’s dark and campy, yet warm and welcoming. I feel like often, in steakhouses, the servers take it really seriously. You’ll have waiters who are like, “This is my career.” Times are tough, and if you’re going to spend a lot on a dinner, it’s nice that someone takes pride in that element of it, and you kind of feel special.
I try to give that same energy when it comes to greeting people at Jumbo’s, getting to know them, making sure they have change, or making sure they know how it works. I feel like at steakhouses, it’s more common for the servers to just really take pride in it. What’s the Olive Garden slogan? When you’re here, you’re family?
A steakhouse, a steakhouse date, or an outing to me is also an opportunity to wear the red bottom shoes and the first day of a blowout. You make sure your nails are pretty. Maybe that might be an element for me — not the performative aspect of it but putting time and effort into what you’re going to wear. It’s a whole song and dance with foreplay.
Even if you don’t order four courses, it’s the whole shebang. Does the place offer valet? Can I bring my ‘72 Chevy Vega? Can I self-park? I guess steakhouses used to be such a special occasion thing for me, but now that I’m able to, because of my life at Jumbo’s, say, “Fuck it. Let’s go get the $99 tasting menu. Lola’s having a bad day. Let’s take her to the Venice Room, and she can watch me ruin her steak.” It’s an easily accessible thing that’s classic and comforting, but still feels so Frank Sinatra.
Scarlett Kapella is a Los Angeles–based dancer and visual artist with an emphasis on all things erotic. She is best known for her stage performances at Jumbo’s Clown Room and her photography series BITCH! You Strippin’, which spotlights dancers across the United States. Her performance credits include PornHub x Richardson Magazine A12 release, The Other Art Fair, Dave Chappelle’s Dave & Buster’s party, Scott Hove’s Cakeland, and Jeffrey Campbell x Bettie Page where she also served as a programming partner. Her work has been featured in Dazed, Juxtapoz, Drome, Bad Seed, LA Weekly, Swill, Exotika, I-D, and Richardson Magazine. She is the co-creator of Topless Tapas, a pop-up stripper-infused dinner experience. Most recently, Scarlett was highlighted in Los Angeles Magazine and Playboy. Her literary debut, Wine Me, Dine Me, 69 Me, was featured in the Los Angeles Times.