There’s certainly no shortage of excellent food to be found in San Francisco and the Bay Area — but there’s plenty worth skipping, too. Luckily for you, Eater editors dine out several times a week (or more) and we’re happy to share the standout dishes we encounter as we go.
Am I allowed to shout out two things on a menu? Well, simply accept that two of my best bites in April were at Pâtisserie Rotha. I’ve been on a bit of a canele kick, and am so glad I added these little beauties to my order. Here, the caneles have that desirable crust that gives a sweet crunch when biting into it, giving way to the soft, custard-like interior. It’s a balance to get those textures just so, and Rotha has nailed it. Meanwhile, the pastels de nata are constantly mentioned as a “must order” and, yes, it really is true. (Just order it!) The flaky layers deliver that crisp edge that you want in a tart, with a custard center that doesn’t run once it’s bitten into. It’s eggy, sweet, soft, and crisp, a delight to have with some coffee at home, a reward after braving the morning lines at Rotha.
Pâtisserie Rotha (1051 San Pablo Avenue, Albany) is open 7:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. Thursday and Friday, and 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. Saturday and Sunday.
I trekked out to Napa on a Saturday to check out the new George + Kin’s, a new restaurant serving Japanese American diner dishes. While there’s plenty to be excited about, including the giant French toast made with their proprietary Japanese milk bread crossed with sourdough, the dish I’m still thinking about is the restaurant’s version of carbonara. The swap to udon noodles really worked for this dish; they’re thicker, bouncier noodles — a textural element that I enjoyed as someone who is already all-in on bucatini in her Italian dishes at home. The sauce has lots of umami in it, thanks to the crispy bacon, Parmesan, and a dose of miso, but the addition of bonito flakes on top gives it an extra oomph of salt. This dish feels familiar, like the classic, yet revved up with some thoughtful touches, which made this item feel really seen and appreciated.
George + Kin’s (3824 Bel Aire Plaza, Napa) is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily.
I’ve been doing my circuit of visits to the newer restaurants opening in the Bay Area, and dropped into Maria Isabel, the newest restaurant from Laura and Sayat Ozyilmaz of Dalida, this month. Seeing as how I am a fiend for ceviche, I was immediately drawn to the mariscos section. Our charming server pointed our table toward the ceviche Acapulqueño, which pairs poached shrimp with raw scallop. The plate was topped with pieces of avocado, cucumber, marigold flowers, and thinly sliced serranos, giving the sour orange dressing some heat. The surprise was the addition of shrimp heads, fried to crispy-crunchy perfection, an additional treat on top of a delicious plate of tender shrimp and scallops. Shrimp heads are not for everyone, but those who enjoy the texture and flavor will like this dish.
Maria Isabel (500 Presidio Avenue, San Francisco) is open 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
I’m not a noodle snob — I do have opinions, but I’m never a snob — so the instant noodle dish Yum Dek Dormitory from Emeryville’s Secrets of Tiger was a highlight. I love an instant noodle, and Mama Thai Instant Noodles are good ones, and I was impressed by the restaurant’s approach. The noodles were somehow not overcooked (which is easily done in a three-minute cooking window), and the chef packs in tons of flavors and textures. The fish sauce dressing adds umami, with lime juice and chiles adding citrus and heat to temper its saltier tendencies. Shrimp and minced chicken give the dish some protein, while fried shallots and red onions add crunch to the whole thing. I somewhat ordered this on a lark, realizing I’d like something with a refreshing (not heavy) sauce, and I have no regrets. I’ll likely order this on my next visit as an item for the table to share, and I encourage everyone to follow.
Secrets of Tiger (6520 Hollis Street, Emeryville) is open from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday through Tuesday.