The editors at Eater Los Angeles dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
Bay leaf stracciatella from Little Fish in Melrose Hill
As someone who has an admittedly low sugar tolerance, it takes a lot for a restaurant dessert to stand out to me against a field of savory options. But at the end of lunch at Little Fish Melrose Hill I found myself entirely captivated by the bay leaf stracciatella. Two scoops of ice cream arrive nestled into a low glass chalice alongside a handful of deep purple blackberries and a shallow pool of cabernet at the bottom. The herbaceous bay leaf flavors comes through in every chocolate-flecked bite, balancing the creamy base with something undeniable woodsy. The two-scoop situation is a perfect and shareable bookend to a leisurely mid-day meal of fish sandwiches, hot mint tea, and peppery fries. 5035 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038. — Rebecca Roland, deputy editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Blue corn mochi pancakes from Baking with Ish in San Gabriel
Wildly inventive Baking with Ish recently expanded into a hot kitchen in San Gabriel’s Blossom Market Hall and, with that, comes new dishes from baker Ishnoelle Richardson to accompany the already stellar menu of pies and pastries. Blue corn mochi pancakes lured me for weekend brunch: Tehachapi blue cornmeal gets combined with Koda Farms mochiko flour, resulting in a batter that’s pleasantly bouncy when griddled. Ish finishes the pancakes with a silky ube flan glaze that provides all the sweetness they need. A generous sprinkle of flaky salt balances out the glaze. 264 S. Mission Drive, Space C, San Gabriel, CA 91776. — Kat Thompson, audience editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Nihari stew from Roshona Bilash in Melrose Hill
Blocks away from Los Angeles’s hotspots Bar Etoile, Little Fish, and Kuya Lord sits Roshona Bilash, a Bangladeshi spot that’s making some of the most comforting food in Los Angeles. Chef-owner Abul Ibrahim runs the restaurant with his wife, Jasmine, and two adult children, who drop off platters of goat biryani, chicken tikka, kebabs, and lentils to hungry guests. (Braised lamb shank only gets served on weekends and it’s everything you hope for.) I focused on finishing the nihari stew, which is slow-cooked for nearly 12 hours in aromatics like chiles and ginger. Bone marrow provides a rich and beautifully glossy texture; the meat arrives mind-bendingly tender. Take your preferred bread (roti, paratha, or naan), and sop up every glorious bite until it fully disappears. 861 N. Western Avenue, Melrose Hill, CA, 90029. — Mona Holmes, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Breakfast burrito from Kuyas in Highland Park
There’s so much coffee on Figueroa in Highland Park that even parody of the fact feels passé. It felt heartbreaking, however, when Kindness & Mischief, the most earnest coffee shop on that stretch, closed — its high-toned cold brew got me through many long, listless pandemic-era days. Fortunately, the space landed in good hands: Two former Kindness & Mischief employees have flipped it into Kuyas, a Filipino American cafe that bears striking resemblance to the former tenant, down to the furniture and glassware. The food has a fun Filipino bent; I really enjoyed the breakfast burrito packed with garlic fried rice, marinated bistek, scrambled eggs, and a few vegetables, served with a wedge of calamansi and a spicy, vinegary salsa roja. It is a rich, salty, hefty thing that arrives bisected — you should probably take the hint and split it with a friend. 5537 N. Figueroa Street, Los Angeles, CA 90042. — Ben Mesirow, associate travel editor