If I had to pick a singular word to define the food at East Hollywood’s Mesa Thai, I would choose defiant. In a world of boring and overly sweet pad Thais, Mesa — helmed by chef Phitwasuphon “Ple” Thanaporn — remains unrepentantly itself, leaning into the boldness of unfiltered fish sauce, the eye-watering heat of Thai chiles, and the magic of fermentation in seafood and sausages. The dining room isn’t anything special — find vinyl booths and chalk boards with specials written in Thai — but you’re here for the food. And it’s Thai food so good that it’s become a favorite among Thai chefs in Los Angeles; even your favorite Thai pop star (yes, Lisa) dines there — and you should, too.
Thai food enthusiasts who want to try food that is truly informed by a Thai palate. You can come in large groups; the dining room is big enough to easily hold parties of 10 or 12 (and I have yet to have to wait for a table).
The boat noodles come in two sizes at $7.95 for a small and $15.95 for a large. I recommend getting a small so you can sample how special the soup is while maintaining enough hunger to try more of the menu.