Owner and chef Emmanuel Galvan founded his pop-up Bolita Masa as a study in masa, using rare heirloom corn varietals to make the doughy foundations for tamales and more. The legions of fans followed faithfully, eating up Galvan’s creations with fervor and ordering masa and tortillas to bring home. Galvan eventually took over the former Standard Fare space in Berkeley, opening Bolita Masa as a permanent restaurant in late February 2025, where the restaurant has continued to earn all sorts of attention for Galvan’s masterful use of masa and seasonal produce. It was so good, I went two days in a row.
Lunch. Yes, they open at 9 a.m., but if diners go right at 11 a.m. (or later) when the menu expands with heartier items, the best of both worlds is available: the roasted eggplant tostada, the carrot masa tamal, and a (likely) very necessary caffeine fix.