Branzino at Cultivar in Sausalito. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal)
Cultivar’s Grilled Asparagus starter is topped with a poached egg. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal)
People sit for lunch in the dining room of Cultivar in Sausalito on May 15. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal)
Grilled Squid Salad at Cultivar in Sausalito. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal)
Flower petals garnish the Seasonal Risotto at Cultivar in Sausalito. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal)
People sit for lunch in the outdoor dining area of Cultivar in Sausalito on May 15. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal)
Outdoor seating at Cultivar in Sausalito. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal)
Oysters at Cultivar in Sausalito. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal)
The exterior of Cultivar in Sausalito. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal)
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Branzino at Cultivar in Sausalito. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal)
On Bridgeway in Sausalito, across from verdant Viña Del Mar Park with its elephant head statues and gushing fountain, sits a new restaurant, Cultivar. The long-time gallery space was converted into a two-story restaurant with an upstairs prep kitchen and an area with temperature-controlled wines lining the back wall and with a large table in view from the dining room below.
Spacious windows on one side look out onto Bridgeway and toward the leafy park on the side street. Planters of herbs and vegetables separate the sidewalk from the restaurant’s patio with its outdoor seating combination of tables and comfy couches.
When I first glanced at the menu, I thought it looked like a wedding catering menu designed to please guests from across the country. When I arrived at Cultivar and saw where it was located, the menu made sense. Just steps from the Sausalito Ferry Landing, Cultivar wisely offers a diverse menu that’s available daily. A meal could be made of just the starters. Pizza or pasta with a salad can be another meal, or you could be more traditional with one of the main courses. And, of course, a burger and fries are found on this menu.
Siblings Jody Harris and Gingy Harris Gable are the third-generation owners of Caspar Estate in Napa. Their grandfather started the farms in the 1950s, and now his grandchildren at their restaurants serve produce from that land and wine from the Cultivar winery they founded in 2010.
There is a Cultivar restaurant in San Francisco’s Marina District, a tasting room in Ghirardelli Square in San Francisco and this Cultivar in Sausalito opened earlier this year.
Executive chef Matthew Curry, formerly at Waterbar in San Francisco and Sam’s Anchor Cafe in Tiburon, has designed a menu of ingredients that reflect their terroir — like the restaurant’s wines — and he and chef de cuisine Justin Bruckert execute them well.
The wine list primarily features Cultivar and Caspar wines known for their typicity. Wines are available by the glass ($14 to $42) and bottle ($49 to $325). Cocktails ($18 to $19 for signature cocktails) and beer ($10) are also available.
We settled into our booth of warm brown faux suede. Upholstered muted green chairs add more seating, and shaded lamps gently hover over the booths. I sat with a view of the far wall with a mural of softly rolling hills in earth tones. The space is open, with muted tones, yet bright with natural light. Flat gray screens were lowered when the light became too intense. It’s a welcome space with a brightly lit bar and bar seats that are quickly occupied.
Our server, Cesar, was wonderfully patient, attentive and informative. After taking in our surroundings and, of course, chatting, we selected a glass of wine each: 2023 Cultivar Pinot Noir from Santa Lucia Highlands ($16) and a 2023 Cultivar Chardonnay from Alexander Valley ($16). Our friend ordered Best Day Brewing’s nonalcoholic West Coast IPA ($7).
We ordered one starter, the Grilled Asparagus ($17), and the Grilled Squid Salad ($28). The asparagus stalks were grilled, firm and tossed with the sharp green garlic vinaigrette. Lined up on an oval brown platter, they were lightly sprinkled with seasoned breadcrumbs and crispy prosciutto. A wobbly, poached egg sat atop the asparagus and shredded frisée. We were immediately impressed. The presentation was inviting and not overworked. All the flavors were nicely pointed and then tamed with the warm egg yolk.
The Grilled Squid Salad, while very tasty, especially with the burst of yellow and red cherry tomatoes, seemed overpriced compared to the asparagus. The thin squiggles of squid didn’t have any of the exciting flavor that I associate with grilled squid. Maybe if the pieces of the squid had been larger?
Two more seasonal dishes came: the Spring Ravioli ($26) stuffed with artichokes and spinach and the Seasonal Risotto ($26) with fava beans and asparagus.
Eight plump, tender ravioli pillows speckled with fresh peas sat in a Parmesan cream sauce. The dish was perfect for two of us, but one person just didn’t care for the sauce. Rich and cheesy, it put a smile on my face.
The plate of risotto was dotted with the green vegetables and redolent of lemon mascarpone. The rice had a nice bite and was still soupy around the edge of the plate. Grated Parmesan added more dazzle. Now, we all loved this one. Go figure.
We wanted to taste one of the mains and chose the one that looked to be the easiest to share: the Oven-Roasted Whole Branzino ($48). It didn’t disappoint. The fish, roasted in a Tuscan-crafted Valoriani oven, was served on a large gray oval platter. Slices of lemons and dollops of salsa verde garnished the fish that was plated over roasted fingerling potatoes that soaked up all those wonderful flavors. Roasted cauliflower and romanesco with sprigs of arugula completed the dish.
Branzino, with its mild flavor and pleasant texture, dominates menus across the Bay Area. This one was well prepared, but I do wish we could see more varieties of fish on our menus. That branzino had traveled from the Mediterranean. California rockfish is readily available and hyperlocal. Delicious, too.
All four desserts are house-made, as is everything on the menu. Overall, Cultivar did a good seasonal presentation.
Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at ijfoodwalker@gmail.com.
Cultivar
Address: 690 Bridgeway, Sausalito
Phone: 415-962-4200
Website: cultivarwine.com
Cuisine: California cuisine
Noise level: Medium to loud
Seating: Inside and outside
Liquor selection: Full bar, wine and beer
Vegetarian dishes: Yes
Vegan dishes: Some items can be modified
Gluten-free selections: Yes
Dog friendly: On patio
Parking: Street and public lot
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays and Sundays; 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays
Prices: $12 to $47
Reservations: OpenTable
Summary: Handsome and comfortable restaurant offering all-day service from snacks to full meals