Chef Abraham Nuñez’s Chicano Nuevo began as a pop-up serving Ensenada-style Mexican food throughout San Francisco. His brand of fish tacos and tamales became popular with locals as Nuñez popped up in places like the original Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack location, a well-regarded residency at the former Broken Record in the Excelsior, and one-day stints at Old Devil Moon, El Rio, and Casements. The menu is composed of what Nuñez calls “border town street food,” befitting his time growing up in San Diego and Tijuana. It also doesn’t hurt that Nuñez has spent time in San Francisco kitchens such as State Bird Provisions, Buddy, and (now-closed) Cockscomb.
Now, with partner Courtney Fujita, Nuñez has opened a restaurant in Bernal Heights. Fujita’s experience in bartending, having worked with the Future Bars group for nine years — the team behind Bourbon and Branch, Pagan Idol, and others — and local wine bars 20 Spot and Wildhawk, pairs well with Nuñez, who has his own bartending experience to brag about. The couple hit some bumps with opening, but now diners can see the full expression of Nuñez’s food in an intimate space.
The Chicano Nuevo dining room is awash in light-colored wood tables and white walls, all against the refurbished terrazzo flooring. The street-facing windows are covered with floor-to-ceiling drapes, and window gels in blue, orange, and yellow transmit beachy Baja vibes as the sun sets outside. The space feels modern, yet cozy, with a 70s-ish soul playlist in the background. Tableware also skews modern, with wooden, stone, and ceramic plates brought in by the course, and gold flatware.
Alcohol is on pause for the time being, so that means Nuñez and Fujita lean on nonalcoholic drinks, such as a trio of agua frescas ($12 each) offered at a recent dinner. Mine leaned more “medicinal” with carrot, raspberry, ginger, and more, with hibiscus turning the drink a summertime shade of pink and the ginger offering some bite. My dining partner ordered the agua de tomate fresca, which offered a refreshing, mellow tomato taste and comes with a house tomato chip garnish.
Pay close attention to the specials. Here, it almost reads more “secret menu,” where sidelined items from the regular Chicano Nuevo repertoire can live once again. At my dinner, the much-loved tamale negro ($22) was the add-on, featuring sherry-braised lengua, with cheese pull-inducing smoked Gouda. Squid ink gives the tamale its signature, all-black look with pickled jalapeños and crema, for a study in visual contrast and flavors. Let the team guide you: Fujita shared that this is a crowd favorite that we should really try, and she was open to letting my table of two share a tamal. (WORTH IT.)