Lort cha at Lunette in the Ferry Building. | Source: Morgan Ellis/The Standard
Published Aug. 5, 2026at6:00am
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I’ve always loved chef Nite Yun, but until last week, I was skeptical of her noodles.
When Yun opened her Cambodian restaurant Lunette in the Ferry Building a couple of years ago, she was excited to put on the menu lort cha, a dish she grew up eating in Stockton, where she’d arrived from a refugee camp at the age of 2, after her parents fled the Khmer Rouge. This dish is ubiquitous in Cambodia, where Yun was born, and provides a cheap and cheerful sort of comfort for little more than pocket change.
Knowing this, the first time I went to Lunette (opens in new tab), I ordered it.
A few bites in, though, I decided the mild stir-fry — with stubby, rice-flour-based pin noodles, bean sprouts, and chives — was tasty, but a little, well, one-note.