For subscribersPublished Aug. 17, 2026at6:00am
Eat Here Now is a first look at some of the newest, hottest restaurants around – the ones we think are worth visiting. We dine once, serve forth our thoughts, and let you take it from there.
Cheesy, browned just so, and served with a snappy side salad of greens and edible flowers, the frico at Polenta Trattoria Friuliana (opens in new tab) is a humble-looking slice of onion-scented heaven. A signature dish of Friuli in northeastern Italy, the pan-fried cake is made with potato rather than eggs, making it a distant cousin of a crustless quiche or Spanish tortilla. Think of it as potatoes au gratin turned into a pie. It’s the very definition of comfort food — even on the first encounter.
Unmissable though it is, frico is but one standout among many at Polenta, which opened three months ago in the former Alamo Square Seafood Grill space on Fillmore Street near Grove. Aside from grilled lamb chops with artichokes and bowls of roasted carrots with mascarpone, almond, and dill, much of the menu consists of homemade pastas. Among them are purcit, an egg noodle dish made with pork sausage ragu, and granc, a plate of linguine with crab and capers in tomato sauce topped with breadcrumbs. The best might be the autumnal tajadeis, another egg noodle dish, with cauliflower, sage, and truffle butter. The menu rotates frequently; when it appears, the polenta conre may come with summer squash, artichoke, and a dip made from aged cheese called Montasio.
Polenta serves its frico with a summer salad.
The interior includes traditional dishware.