Before operating a pandemic pizza pop-up in his mother’s Mar Vista backyard, chef Miles Okabayashi built his skill sets in some notable kitchens, including République and New York’s Perry Street. Less than four years later, he partnered with his brother, Sam, and sister-in-law, Jean Okabayashi, to debut Wildcrust in Highland Park. It’s a stylish, midcentury-esque, comfy spot on the edge of the neighborhood, where the soft-spoken chef slings some of Northeast Los Angeles’s best pizzas, ranging from traditional to adventurous, and uses a wood-fired grill for mains like whole branzino with a shiitake beurre blanc — best paired with wines curated from small producers.
The restaurant’s large windows, patio, and lighting are some of its best assets. The southwest-facing room requires grabbing a reservation time when you can watch the California sky seep from day to night.