It’s the ultimate road for the ultimate driving machine, known for its coiling, hairpin turns that have lent a 2.4-mile stretch of Mulholland Highway the sobriquet of “The Snake.”
On Tuesday, this famous squiggle etched through the Santa Monica Mountains finally reopened, seven years after it was shut down by the Woolsey Fire.
Here’s the catch: People who live in the area and enthusiasts who frequent the route wish you didn’t know. More about that later. But first, let’s take a short drive down memory lane.
Connecting L.A.
Groundbreaking ceremony for Mulholland Drive in 1923, called Mulholland Highway at the time.
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Keystone Photo Service
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Courtesy Security Pacific National Bank Collection, Los Angeles Public Library
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Aerial view of Mulholland Drive taken in 1924, looking east over the Hollywood Hills from a point just east of Girard.
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Robert E. Spence
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Courtesy Security Pacific National Bank Collection, Los Angeles Public Library
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The Mulholland corridor, all 50-some miles of it, has long lured motorists chasing speed against a scrolling backdrop of the city. In fact, when the thoroughfare carrying the name of the man who brought water to modern Los Angeles first opened in 1924, the prediction was that it’d become “one of the best known scenic roads in the United States.”
The project, backed by landowners who wanted to bring development to the Hollywood Hills, was conceived to link the burgeoning city to the mountains and the sea.
The road has inspired art, film — and since its earliest days, movie stars. Before World War II, it was Gary Cooper and John Carradine taking their Duesenbergs there for a spin. In the 1950s, James Dean used its turns and switchbacks as a training course of sorts.
“All I’ve been doing is driving around Mulholland Drive,” said the actor, according to lore, after placing second overall in the Palm Spring Road Races.
A winding Mulholland Drive in Hollywood Hills in 1933.
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Courtesy Security Pacific National Bank Collection, Los Angeles Public Library
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View of the Hollywoodland sign from Mulholland
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Herman J Schultheis
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Herman J Schultheis Collection / Los Angeles Photographers Collection, Los Angeles Public Library
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A decade later, it was Steve McQueen, taking The Snake on his Jaguar or Triumph, before making a pit stop at the Rock Store, the nearby biker hangout.
The bad stretch
As legends of the road grew, so too did the crowd, including thrill-seekers — locally and from all corners of the world — looking to strut their stuff.
For years, a YouTube channel documented these rides and wipeouts, with cameras set up at the unofficial end of The Snake, dubbed Edwards Corner.
Officer G. H. Yeaton gives Norman Norlander directions atop Mulholland Drive at Beverly Glen as children wave placards urging traffic safety in 1937.
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Gordon Dean
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Courtesy Valley Times Collection, Los Angeles Public Library
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Those videos stopped in 2018 after the Woolsey Fire and mudslides a year later caused major damage to The Snake.
Keeping it low key
Now, those 2.4 miles finally have reopened. But instead of fanfare, it’s been met with controversy and a hope that outsiders don’t notice.
That’s because a debate was raging about whether the stretch should be reopened at all to the public.
On the one side, you have homeowners and residents who have long been turned off by the noise and the open exhaust pipes — not to mention the crashes — from a constant stream of motorists.
Skyline view of downtown Los Angeles from Mulholland Drive
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Jeff Thurlow
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COVID-19 Community Archive, Los Angeles Public Library
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On the other, you have the riding clubs and Mulholland regulars wary of the same thing: that overuse will bring the callous riders, complaints and crashes of the before times.
“Sadly, irresponsible riders will have it closed again before you know it,” a poster in a Facebook thread said of The Snake’s reopening.
The question was even addressed by L.A. County Public Works officials in an FAQ issued this year, where they said the roadway did not meet the criteria for a permanent closure and that closing it permanently would cut off a key access point for residents.
LAist reached out to a number of riders for the story, to no avail. Same with our request to the CHP division that oversees The Snake.
So there you have it. The famed route is now open. Just don’t expect any welcoming waves if you venture through.