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<\/p>\nLong Island’s best french fries might just be coming from a new hidden kitchen on the second floor of a\u00a0brewery in Long Beach. They’re definitely the best I’ve had on Long Island.\u00a0But are they technically even french fries when each piece is practically the size of a small potato?\u00a0<\/p>\n
These questions are for the linguists and the philosophers \u2014 but for now, I’m calling them french fries and saying you should drop everything and find them. The fries of note are\u00a0at Bright Eye Beer Co., where a team of tattooed pop-up chefs are making\u00a0Netflix-worthy bar food daily. Zeebo’s is a partnership between chef-brothers Sam and Zach Rabiner, who were born in Long Beach and started the pop-up thing back in 2020 out of their parents’ house. More recently, they’ve putt\u00a0on multicourse Mexican dinners at the tiny cafe Blacksmith’s Breads, but have been building out the Bright Eye Beer Co. space since 2024, Sam Rabiner said.<\/p>\n
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The top-floor restaurant, which opened in December,\u00a0still feels rather loose and word-of-mouth. On\u00a0a recent evening, it was hard to know it was even there, thanks to minimal signage aside from a paper menu with four\u00a0items scattered around a hand drawing of a skeleton. Brewery-goers can\u00a0sit at the bar downstairs and order the fries, wings and smashburgers to be brought down from upstairs.<\/p>\n
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A cheeseburger with pepper sauce and fries at Zeebo’s pop-up at Bright Eye Beer Co. in Long Beach. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski<\/p>\n
But the dining space is where the real show is. The small room has an urban\u00a0art gallery vibe and is\u00a0dominated by a high-ceilinged, open kitchen where you can watch the cooks. The menu changes daily, and often features some legit-looking Northern Mexican\u00a0burritos with flour tortillas that are sourced direct from “a wizard named Pablo” in the Mexican state of Sonora, Rabiner said.\u00a0They\u00a0also do elaborate\u00a0pop-up dinners for private parties.<\/p>\n
Available that evening: Buffalo wings\u00a0from organic farm-raised chicken, cooked just right with\u00a0crispy skin and juicy meat, dipped in\u00a0a generous bowl of chunky blue cheese dressing.\u00a0A smashburger ($14) with tangy pepper relish had a\u00a0crispy sear on the edges on the meat. Great, but it\u00a0was dwarfed by the plate of massive fries.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Rabiner said they’re a nod to the English pub fries that they’ve tried at New York City restaurants like\u00a0Lord\u2019s and Rolo’s. In a move reminiscent of “Jiro Dreams of Sushi,” he hired a cook who works specifically on the fries.\u00a0Steve Salerno is there five days a week, seven hours a day, going through 350 pounds of potatoes a week.\u00a0The key to the glorious crust is to boil the potatoes until the outer layer gets a fuzzy texture, because this creates more exposed space, which leads to a craggier, crispier fry.<\/p>\n
“He’s constantly giving them love and respect,” Rabiner said, describing the process that can take a whole day.\u00a0“Peel, soak, cut, another soak, boil, chill, low temperature fry, freeze, then fry for service.”<\/p>\n
This arduous technique results in fat wedges of different sizes that are soft on the inside, yet shatteringly crunchy on the outside. Each hunk has a nice crust of flaky salt, which keeps the blood pumping. They’re dipped in ketchup, malt vinegar, and if that’s not decadent enough, mayo.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Zeebo’s, at Bright Eye. Beer Co,\u00a050 W. Park Ave., Long Beach,\u00a0516-543-5736,\u00a0instagram.com\/zeebos<\/a>. Open 5 to 9:30 p.m. Wednesday through Friday, 2 to 7\u00a0p.m. Saturday and noon to 3 p.m. Sunday.<\/p>\n \n\tAndi Berlin is from Arizona and does not know where she is going. But when she gets there, she\u2019ll find something beautiful and delicious that the world needs to taste.\n<\/p>\n![\"Andi](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/1771244954_255_image.jpeg\"\/)
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