The idea for Town Biscuits was sparked by a pregnancy craving.<\/p>\n
Will\u00a0Kovach and Chasity Barwick were expecting their first child when Barwick was afflicted with a yearning for biscuit breakfast sandwiches\u00a0– a ubiquitous food in North Carolina, less so in Oakland. She dreamt of them, only to wake up devastated by the dearth of offerings.<\/p>\n
The couple, who have been in the restaurant industry for over a decade, met while working at smashburger restaurant Lovely’s in Oakland. To satisfy her biscuit craving,\u00a0Barwick convinced her husband that they should take on another project, a popup called Town Biscuits. It debuted in November as a residency at Cafe Vary, a shared kitchen space in Uptown Oakland. Months old,\u00a0the operation has already found a strong customer base, resulting in the occasional line and a quickly depleting reserve of biscuits. (They’ve since increased production.)<\/p>\n
Town Biscuit’s early success shows the universal appeal of a good biscuit, which is certainly available in Oakland (see: Crumble and Whisk and Sequoia Diner), but Kovach and Barwick set a new benchmark, with engrossing biscuits that are slightly crisp and burnished on top but pillow-soft and crumbly inside.<\/p>\n
Along the sides, you can count the scores of Kerrygold butter-enriched layers, which are earned from repeatedly folding the dough like an envelope. “A flaky biscuit that you can peel the layers off was of the utmost importance to me,” Barwick said.<\/p>\n
Think of the menu as different ways to eat buttermilk biscuits. You can order them plain; slathered in butter or pimento cheese; or as a breakfast sandwich filled with sage-flecked scrambled eggs and your choice of meat, like country ham, bacon or a sausage patty.<\/p>\n
The latter is classic as can be: Americana that’s gratifying if nap-inducing. The pimento cheese tastes a little too close to salty Cheez Whiz, distracting from the remarkable quality of the biscuit.<\/p>\n
The most memorable filling pairs lemon zest-infused blueberry jam\u00a0with goat cheese; the tangy-sweet contrast highlights the dormant notes of Ritz Cracker in the biscuit. The combination was introduced as a chef special\u00a0– a chance to showcase Barwick’s grandmother’s jam recipe\u00a0– but has joined the ranks as a permanent vegetarian offering. Barwick recommends adding bacon for a savory contrast, which I plan to order on my next visit.<\/p>\n
For now, Kovach and Barwick are operating in Cafe Vary, which offers indoor and outdoor seating. But they’re on the lookout for a permanent home in Oakland.<\/p>\n
434 25th St., Oakland. townbiscuits.com<\/a><\/p>\n