{"id":217967,"date":"2026-03-13T10:47:13","date_gmt":"2026-03-13T10:47:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/217967\/"},"modified":"2026-03-13T10:47:13","modified_gmt":"2026-03-13T10:47:13","slug":"nomas-1500-dinner-is-the-antithesis-of-l-a","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/217967\/","title":{"rendered":"Noma&#8217;s $1,500 dinner is the antithesis of L.A."},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Ulises Menchaca idled in his pickup truck on a steep street in Silver Lake, late for work. <\/p>\n<p>In front of him, activists were emerging from a tour bus to gather in front of the historic Paramour Estate.<\/p>\n<p>Menchaca, a landscaper, had landed in the middle of a traffic jam sparked by Los Angeles\u2019 latest referendum on itself.<\/p>\n<p>It was opening day for Noma L.A., a dinner series by Danish chef Ren\u00e9 Redzepi. For the next 16 weeks, the man behind one of the most famous restaurants in the world was going to work with his 130-member team at the five-acre compound to create <a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/food\/story\/2026-01-12\/noma-los-angeles-1500-dollars\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">multi-course meals costing $1,500 a seat<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cImagine?\u201d Menchaca, 52, said in Spanish when I explained Noma L.A.\u2019s premise. Gardening tools weighed down the bed of his well-worn Ford Ranger. \u201cI would have to work every day, all day, for three months to afford that. And if I had that money, why would I spend it on just one dinner?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The price point is the least of Redzepi\u2019s sins. <a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/food\/story\/2026-03-07\/noma-abuse-allegations-rene-redzepi-pop-up\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">A recent New York Times article<\/a> detailed allegations of abuse that Redzepi inflicted on his workers, from not paying interns to punching workers to jabbing them with forks to threatening their family members with deportation.<\/p>\n<p>The chef, who has admitted to his \u201cbully\u201d past before, posted a weak-salsa apology on Instagram after the article published. On Wednesday, hours after the protest, Redzepi announced his resignation from Noma via a self-pitying video featuring forlorn crew members looking on as he urged them to \u201cfight\u201d for what he predicted would be \u201cthe restaurant of the decade.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cHe\u2019s an a\u2014\u2014\u2014!\u201d cracked Jim Longeretta while waiting behind Menchaca in a luxury SUV when I asked if he knew what was going on. Would he go to a Noma dinner if someone else paid for it?<\/p>\n<p>\u201cNo way,\u201d Longeretta replied. \u201cNot with all the allegations right now.\u201d <\/p>\n<p>The bus finally parked down the hill. Holding signs that read \u201cNoma Broke Me\u201d and \u201cYour Kitchen is a Crime Scene,\u201d about a dozen activists demanded that Redzepi meet with them and offer reparations to his victims.<\/p>\n<p>            <img class=\"image\" alt=\"A security guard stands at the gate of the Paramour Estate\"   width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/1773398833_852_.jpeg\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"\/>         <\/p>\n<p>A security guard stands at the gate of the Paramour Estate in Silver Lake as guests make their way in for a lunch service at Noma L.A.\u2019s pop-up restaurant.<\/p>\n<p>(Ronaldo Bolanos \/ Los Angeles Times)<\/p>\n<p>L.A. is a city of reinvention, where second chances are a civic sacrament and residents often overlook the flaws of the famous. Here was a chance for Redzepi to redeem himself with true contrition.<\/p>\n<p>Instead, grim-faced men photographed protesters and the media. Employees peeked through a wrought-iron gate as former Noma head of fermentation Jason Ignacio White read a letter decrying Redzepi. <\/p>\n<p>No one answered the intercom when White rang. A looky-loo employee refused to take the letter from him but snapped his photo as he left the letter hanging on a gate.<\/p>\n<p>Security guards directed Latino workers to enter via a side entrance. When a New York Times reporter tried to interview a woman in a chef\u2019s apron and clogs carrying a flower bouquet, she ran back to her van.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIf [Redzepi] would pay any attention to what\u2019s going on in the city, he would have taken his approach differently,\u201d White said, referring to the fires and deportations that have afflicted L.A. \u201cHe doesn\u2019t care about people. He only cares about fame.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019m OK with people spending $1,500 on a dinner. It\u2019s their money, and too many Angelenos do love conspicuous consumption. I have no problem with chefs like Redzepi catering to the elite \u2014 chefs have done that for centuries. His abhorrent behavior is sadly too common across the restaurant industry, from the finest dining to the humblest street stalls. <\/p>\n<p>My main issue is the hubris of it all \u2014 and the people who enabled it.<\/p>\n<p>When <a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/food\/story\/2025-07-01\/why-rene-redzepi-chose-los-angeles-for-next-noma-pop-up-residency\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Redzepi announced Noma\u2019s residency last summer<\/a>, the L.A. food world largely welcomed him as a culinary god. He was viewed as someone kind enough to grace us with his aura, who would renew an <a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/food\/story\/2025-12-22\/state-of-la-restaurants-2025-fires-ice-raids-tariffs-impact\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">economically and spiritually depressed scene<\/a> with his gospel of foraging, locally sourced products, food preservation and seasonality \u2014 so-called innovations that my Mexican grandmothers practiced without widespread adulation or million-dollar budgets.<\/p>\n<p>Gushing media profiles willfully ignored Redzepi\u2019s problematic past and brushed aside the cognitive dissonance of offering a $1,500 Mexican meal in a city with wild economic stratification and a Latino community under existential threat from <a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/california\/story\/2025-10-30\/immigrant-deaths-ice-border-patrol-2025\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">President Trump\u2019s deportation deluge<\/a>, whose restaurants <a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/california\/newsletter\/2025-06-17\/there-was-not-a-soul-there-amid-ice-raids-empty-stores-and-restaurants-in-boyle-heights\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">have particularly suffered<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Noma L.A. nevertheless <a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/food\/story\/2026-01-26\/noma-la-sells-out-in-60-seconds-pop-up-courage-bagels\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">sold out in 60 seconds<\/a>. Its preliminary success and subsequent meltdown is another indictment of those who think that welcoming big names and events \u2014 the World Cup, <a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/california\/newsletter\/2026-02-25\/essential-california-la28-ceo-backs-casey-wasserman\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the Olympics<\/a> \u2014 is the way to save us. <\/p>\n<p>How do you say \u201cPendejos\u201d in Danish?<\/p>\n<p>Last year, Redzepi told my colleague Laurie Ochoa that he chose Los Angeles for his first Noma pop-up in the U.S. because he \u201c<a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/food\/story\/2025-07-01\/why-rene-redzepi-chose-los-angeles-for-next-noma-pop-up-residency\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">truly fell in love<\/a>\u201d with the city. He should have known that L.A. is sick and tired of powerful people trying to put a gloss on indefensible actions, whether it\u2019s Mayor Karen Bass and her <a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/california\/story\/2026-02-04\/bass-directed-watering-down-of-palisades-fire-after-action-report-sources-say\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">handling of the Palisades fire<\/a> or Trump and the state of this country.<\/p>\n<p>Yet that\u2019s all Redzepi has done since the damning New York Times expos\u00e9. Meanwhile, his cult is such that defenders are dismissing his alleged victims as weak-willed crybabies.<\/p>\n<p>Even more pompous is Noma L.A.\u2019s philosophy. It was one thing for Redzepi to showcase the wonders of Nordic cuisine at his rarefied Copenhagen restaurant. It\u2019s quite another to land somewhere and deign to tell the natives he can elevate their cuisine, as when he completed a successful Noma run in the Yucat\u00e1n Peninsula in 2017 \u2014 <a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/food\/jonathan-gold\/la-fo-gold-noma-mexico-20170505-story.html\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the late Times food critic Jonathan Gold praised the effort<\/a> while concluding that \u201cbeauty and conflict are often intertwined.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Noma\u2019s website states that its staff will spend their time in L.A. \u201ccooking, listening, learning, and building a body of work rooted in this place.\u201d For whom? Certainly not for Angelenos, who know what defines their metropolis culinarily, from pupusas to Tommy\u2019s chili burgers, from Persian food in West L.A. to regional Chinese cuisine in the San Gabriel Valley. <\/p>\n<p>While Redzepi bragged about walking Sunset Boulevard from Chinatown to Santa Monica to absorb the city, he must not have soaked in an important fact: L.A. doesn\u2019t need an outsider to tell us how great we are. We already know.<\/p>\n<p>            <img class=\"image\" alt=\"Rene Redzepi, chef and co-owner of Noma\"   width=\"1200\" height=\"802\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/1773398833_497_.jpeg\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"\/>         <\/p>\n<p>Rene Redzepi, chef and co-owner of the Danish restaurant Noma, pictured in 2021 in Copenhagen.<\/p>\n<p>(Thibault Savary \/ AFP via Getty Images)<\/p>\n<p>Redzepi isn\u2019t completely clueless. He\u2019s teamed up with smaller local restaurants and nonprofits to boost their bottom lines and bring them attention. His team is also planning to release a coffee table book about Los Angeles culture. I was invited to contribute an essay and declined, knowing I\u2019d want to write a columna about Noma in L.A.<\/p>\n<p>I didn\u2019t imagine I\u2019d be writing about how L.A. defeated Redzepi.<\/p>\n<p>White and the other activists finished their speeches and then began a cacerolazo \u2014 a type of Latin American protest where people clang pots and pans. Two LAPD cruisers rolled up to meet with upset Noma employees who demanded that the cops shoo people away from the driveway. Officer Manny Gomez politely asked everyone to stay on the sidewalk. <\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhat\u2019s all this about?\u201d Gomez asked me as we stood in the shade of a cargo truck. He shook his head and said, \u201cWow, that sounds kind of expensive\u201d when I mentioned Noma L.A.\u2019s price tag. <\/p>\n<p>He declined  comment further, so I asked him a better question: \u201cWhat\u2019s your favorite taco spot?\u201d After all, cops always know the best places to eat.<\/p>\n<p>\u201c21st and San Pedro. &#8230; Everything you need!\u201d Gomez immediately replied while protesters shouted \u201cShame! Shame! Shame!\u201d at a fleet of electric Cadillac Escalades chauffeuring Noma L.A.\u2019s first round of diners in for lunch. White\u2019s letter to his former boss remained untouched on the gate. <\/p>\n<p>Gomez\u2019s recommendation reflected an L.A. that Redzepi could never hope to channel, where we freely share what we love because we want it to succeed. Where we don\u2019t hide behind high walls, apologists and exorbitant price tags.<\/p>\n<p>I left the Noma protest and drove 20 minutes to El Grullense, a taco truck with an adjoining dining room near the Santee Education Complex. I ordered a fat carne asada burrito that came with two delicious salsas and a grilled jalape\u00f1o. Add a mandarin-flavored Jarritos, and my lunch cost $15. <\/p>\n<p>A hundred of those would buy me one night at Noma L.A. Give me El Grullense.<\/p>\n<p>The lunchtime crowd \u2014 high schoolers, blue-collar types, the elderly \u2014 waited patiently for their orders. <\/p>\n<p>Guillermo Rojas Ortega and Juan Villase\u00f1or went with a carne asada burrito, an al pastor burrito and two tacos de cabeza. The friends scoffed when I told them where I had just been. <\/p>\n<p>\u201c$1,500?!\u201d said Rojas Ortega, a 37-year-old truck driver from Watts. He repeated the figure in Spanish, as if saying it in another language might help him make better sense of it. \u201cDoes it at least go to charity?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThat\u2019s bulls\u2014,\u201d replied Villase\u00f1or, 40, an electrician, when I said no. \u201cThere\u2019s no money for poor people in the hood, but people go to that?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>They were even more disgusted when I brought up Redzepi\u2019s alleged abuse.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cHell, no!\u201d Rojas Orega exclaimed. \u201cWhat does he have to do with community?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cEven though that foo sucks, they\u2019re still going for the food? That\u2019s BS,\u201d Villase\u00f1or said.<\/p>\n<p>Their burritos and tacos were ready. Before the two dug in, I asked if they had a message for Noma diners.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhoever sees him,\u201d Villase\u00f1or said of Redzepi, half joking and half not, \u201cpunch him.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Ulises Menchaca idled in his pickup truck on a steep street in Silver Lake, late for work. In&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":217968,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[27],"tags":[8566,1409,9533,7766,64414,99921,2303,48,52,51,1838,47,50,49,63,74534,592,74532,99919,5730,99920],"class_list":{"0":"post-217967","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-los-angeles","8":"tag-chef","9":"tag-city","10":"tag-deportation","11":"tag-dinner","12":"tag-famous-restaurant","13":"tag-juan-villasenor","14":"tag-l-a","15":"tag-la","16":"tag-la-headlines","17":"tag-la-news","18":"tag-letter","19":"tag-los-angeles","20":"tag-los-angeles-headlines","21":"tag-los-angeles-news","22":"tag-los-angeles-times","23":"tag-noma-l-a","24":"tag-people","25":"tag-redzepi","26":"tag-ulises-menchaca","27":"tag-white","28":"tag-wrought-iron-gate"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/217967","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=217967"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/217967\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/217968"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=217967"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=217967"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=217967"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}