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Henrietta\u2019s signature potatoes come crisped and richly dressed, the kind of side dish that threatens to steal the whole meal.<\/p>\n
Photo by Merril Shindler<\/p>\n
Echo Park\u2014There used to be a restaurant in Claremont, on the edge of the Inland Empire, that served eggs Benedict for breakfast, Caesar salad for lunch…and both sabzee chalau and lawand morgh for dinner. It had a split personality \u2013 American by day, Afghan by night. Numerous restaurants have lived in two worlds — few as far distant as in Claremont \u2013 though the worlds of Henrietta<\/a> on busy Glendale Boulevard in Echo Park are far enough apart that the overlap consists of just a single dish \u2013 the house specialty of Henrietta Potatoes, flavored with garlic aioli and parmesan. No matter what time of the day it is, there\u2019s always room for spicy spuds.<\/p>\n
Countneck clams at Henrietta arrive in a deeply flavorful broth with a long baguette laid across the bowl for soaking up every last drop.<\/p>\n Photo by Merrill Shindler<\/p>\n Henrietta refers to itself as a \u201cNeighborhood Deli & Kitchen\u201d \u2013 though the deli side of the menu exists only at lunch. That\u2019s when this oddly shaped storefront, with the option of sitting at a handful of tables outside where traffic is the dominant visual, serves its daytime menu of salads, sandwiches and tasty stuff from the deli case.<\/p>\n Myself, I\u2019d rather sit at the counter with a fine view of the open kitchen, watching stuff sizzling and steaming, swimming in a sea of tempting whiffs, gazing in wonder as the dishes are assembled like edible Legos. The process of turning raw ingredients into plated meals never fails to fill me with wonder. On a good day, I can make an edible peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Every day, the masters at Henrietta combine broccolini with smoked cheddar, peppery-smoky romesco sauce and dates on ciabatta bread. How do they come up with such things?<\/p>\n A composed salad at Henrietta layers citrus, avocado, chicories, herbs and a creamy dressing into one of the menu\u2019s lighter, brighter dishes.<\/p>\n Photo by Merril Shindler<\/p>\n Things like the mushroom dip with \u201cyoung\u201d provolone, aioli and both caramelized and pickled onions. The \u201cShredder\u201d with spicy capicola (dry-cured pork), Comte cheese and pickle aioli. The avocado chop salad with delicata squash, quinoa and a flaxseed vinaigrette. Served until evening, when they\u2019re replaced with baguettes with deviled egg and trout roe. And the marinated broccolini gets fried with Hatch chiles, honey and yogurt.<\/p>\n It\u2019s not as if Henrietta puts on a tie and jacket come nightfall \u2013 this is Echo Park at its most Eastside. But the wine list grows from a handful to a page worth. And the fishlessness of lunch is replaced with bluefin tuna crudo (with blood orange and Fresno chiles), Countneck clams (like Little Necks, but a tad smaller) with peperonata in an obsessively good sherry broth, and striped bass with blood oranges and burnt chiles.<\/p>\n The bass is one of only a trio of \u201cserious\u201d dishes \u2013 along with pork collar with Turkish Urfa chiles and apples, and a half chicken with the Caesar panzanella that\u2019s found by itself on the lunch menu. But if you, like me, have built your life around a multitude of small dishes \u2013 a culinary short attention span \u2013 contentment is found in the beef tartare toast with pickled squash, the ricotta dumplings with chanterelles. And the Henrietta potatoes. Always the Henrietta potatoes. I know foodies who speak rapturously of caviar and truffles as their last meal. When my time comes, I wants me some spuds. Give me one last crunch before I depart to sing with the Choir Eternal.<\/p>\n
Rating:\u00a0\u2b50\u2b50\u2b50<\/p>\n \u2b50\u2b50\u2b50\u2b50\u00a0Beyond Sublime\u2b50\u2b50\u2b50\u00a0Worth Every Penny\u2b50\u2b50A Good Neighborhood Destination\u2b50\u00a0Might As Well Stay At HomeHenrietta343 Glendale Blvd., Echo Park323-272-6646www.henriettala.com<\/a>Lunch and dinner, Thursday through MondayModerately priced<\/p>\n A front-window display of produce reinforces Henrietta\u2019s market-and-kitchen identity on Glendale Boulevard in Echo Park.<\/p>\n Photo by Merril Shindler<\/p>\n Henrietta\u2019s dining room mixes framed produce prints, vintage-style artwork and warm lighting for a casual, curated feel.<\/p>\n Photo by Merril Shindler<\/p>\n Henrietta\u2019s brick exterior on Glendale Boulevard gives the Echo Park restaurant a modest neighborhood presence with plenty of charm.<\/p>\n Photo by Merril Shindler<\/p>\n Merrill Shindler has spent his life eating for a living in New York, San Francisco and Los Angeles. He grew up on a world of neighborhood bakeries. And the Clark Street Baguettes with a choice of five spreads is a cozy reminder that bread truly is the staff of life. Though tuna crudo and Countneck clams make it taste even better.<\/p>\n
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