Uproariously rich bone marrow is back at Bay Area restaurants.<\/p>\n
Equal Parts, a bar in North Beach with a \u201ctake me back to Tulum\u201d vibe, serves beef bones split and roasted with a glinting stripe of marrow down the middle, accompanied by a toast and a vinegary herb salad. Ferry Building flagship Arquet<\/a> pairs bone marrow with nori-infused buns and jam; perpetually crowded English pub Dingles<\/a> in Hayes Valley swaps out toast for a flaky Guinness pie. As an add-on, for $10, Amado in Burlingame will throw it on an Australian Wagyu skirt steak taco, while Hungry Cow, the all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue joint in Fremont, allots a bone per person with its premium option.\u00a0<\/p>\n Deep in my own marrow, I\u2019m burned out on it.\u00a0<\/p>\n While I enjoy many marrow preparations\u00a0\u2014 at Copra, for instance, where it\u2019s served with chukka masala and gravy\u00a0\u2014 I lately find that it feels tacked on to a growing number of dishes, like a shot of bougie beef fat. The most egregious use I\u2019ve encountered was at Sushi By Scratch, a speakeasy counter in Healdsburg, where cooks blasted a sliced bone with a torch until the marrow liquified and flowed over a unagi nigiri. It was greasier than an entire fried spider roll.<\/p>\n Bone marrow became a culinary fascination<\/a> in the 1990s<\/a>. Most modern permutations of the dish\u00a0\u2014 bone + bread\u00a0\u2014 riff on the form established<\/a> by St. John in London, an icon of British nose-to-tail cooking<\/a>, where the dish has been a signature<\/a> for more than 30 years. Partly informed by the gastropub movement<\/a>,\u00a0bone marrow found its way onto countless American menus in the \u201900s and early 2010s. From there, it migrated onto burgers<\/a>, pasta<\/a>, and even salsa<\/a>. The particular brand of decadence of that era was arguably epitomized by the \u201cbone luge,\u201d invented in Portland, Oregon in 2010<\/a>, where alcohol is poured along the empty marrow tract, straight into the participants\u2019 gullet.<\/p>\n The popularity of the bone marrow seemed to diminish by the start of the 2020s, but it has re-emerged at the Bay Area\u2019s buzziest restaurants, even as beef prices approach record levels<\/a>. Perhaps it\u2019s a symptom of the unceasing search for novel ways to signify luxury on the plate beyond the usual suspects of caviar, uni, and foie gras. Or maybe it\u2019s just the tallow-slicked tenure of health secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. It turns out that the upper crust of the Trump administration loves bone marrow, including Secretary of State Marco Rubio, and especially from Washington, D.C., restaurant Butterworth\u2019s<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>\n As during the previous trend cycle of bone marrow in restaurants, the \u201cluges\u201d have also made their appearance \u2014 I\u2019m skipping those, too.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Uproariously rich bone marrow is back at Bay Area restaurants. Equal Parts, a bar in North Beach with…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":300972,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[34],"tags":[413,143,145,144,412],"class_list":["post-300971","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-oakland","tag-food","tag-oakland","tag-oakland-headlines","tag-oakland-news","tag-restaurants"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/300971","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=300971"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/300971\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/300972"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=300971"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=300971"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=300971"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}