<\/p>\n
Pippal brings regional Indian cuisine to its recently introduced location in Dublin.<\/p>\n
Neetu Laddha<\/p>\n
A cloud of steam billows from our plate as crumbles of snow-white, liquid nitrogen-frozen yogurt are spooned over an architecture of ingredients: ripped pieces of savory dhokla sponge cake, crispy leaves of tempura-fried spinach, bright pomegranate seeds, and artful dollops of mint and tamarind chutney, to name a few. Perched at the stylish bar (topped with natural quartzite sourced from Brazil), I lower my phone after snapping a pic and lift my drink: a spin on an old fashioned that mixes ghee butter and chocolate bitters with bourbon poured over an oversize ice cube and served with a paper cone of caramel popcorn affixed with a tiny paper clip to the rim of the glass.<\/p>\n
And this is just the start of our meal at Pippal, which launched with a Bollywood-worthy flourish last year in Dublin\u2019s Waterford Place shopping center. It\u2019s also perhaps the highest-profile example of an ambitious new wave of unapologetically upscale, modern restaurants redefining Indian food in the East Bay.\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0<\/p>\n
\u201cFor us, this started as a passion project to change the perception of Indian cuisine,\u201d says Anu Bhambri, who cofounded Rivaaz Hospitality Group with her husband, Vikram. The collective operates several elevated Indian concepts in the Bay Area, including Pippal in Emeryville and Dublin, with Bollywood actor and model Jatin Grewal and his wife, Carolina, taking a lead role in launching the latter location that opened last fall.\u00a0<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Tender eggplant is the star in the Yellow Chilli\u2019s bagara baingan.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Courtesy of the Yellow Chilli<\/p>\n
Reimagining Regional Fare<\/p>\n
The Bhambris also illustrate a new generation of Indian restaurateurs bringing fresh takes to a dining scene previously dominated by smaller, budget-conscious eateries specializing predominantly in the heartier, curry-heavy dishes of northern India. \u00a0<\/p>\n
\u201cThere is now a larger, newer Indian population, and palates have evolved,\u201d says Bhambri, who grew up in Delhi and came to the Bay Area to work in the tech industry. \u201cEvery cuisine has gone through changes in this country, where it starts off with mom-and-pop places and then becomes more upscale. Mexican food went through it. Chinese has gone through it. It\u2019s about time that Indian cuisine went through it as well. It doesn\u2019t have to all be cheap lunch buffets. There\u2019s always a place for that, but there\u2019s also a place for a more upscale dining experience.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n
It\u2019s a trend that has accelerated in the United States over the past 10 years, says Bhambri, particularly in San Francisco and the South Bay, where Rivaaz has opened locations of its original modern Indian concept, Rooh, and its spinoff cocktail lounge, Fitoor. Acclaimed chef Srijith Gopinathan\u2019s trio of Eylan in Menlo Park, Copra in San Francisco, and Ettan in Palo Alto blends Indian flavors with seasonal California fine-dining sensibilities and premium ingredients such as caviar, truffle oil, and Wagyu rib eye. And Michelin-starred chef Sujan Sarkar and his brother Pujan (both of whom helped guide the kitchen at Rooh) opened Tiya in San Francisco, complete with multiple $100-plus tasting menus. By contrast, the East Bay has been slower to jump on the upscale Indian train. That has begun to change, most noticeably with the arrival of the Yellow Chilli. \u00a0<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The interior of Khaki Bar and Indian Canteen in San Ramon infuses modern California style with Indian textures.<\/p>\n
Neetu Laddha<\/p>\n
The first East Bay outpost of celebrity Indian chef Sanjeev Kapoor\u2019s flagship franchise caused a stir when it debuted four years ago in the former Maria Maria space in Danville\u2019s Rose Garden shopping center. Between the sweeping dining room, two outdoor patios, a large banquet space, elegantly plated dishes, and a full bar with an extensive wine list and craft cocktails, the Yellow Chilli offered a dining experience that local co-owner Shivraj Sidhu says \u201cyou don\u2019t see [with] any other Indian restaurants around here.\u201d It immediately drew curious suburban diners, and Sidhu quickly followed it with the Essence Redefining Indian Food, an expansive Indian concept in Livermore that\u2019s lured similar crowds in the Tri-Valley and Central Valley.\u00a0 \u00a0<\/p>\n
Another unique aspect of the Yellow Chilli is its menu, which expands beyond chicken tikka masala, samosas, and garlic naan standards into lesser-known regional dishes. That is also the case at Khaki Bar and Indian Canteen, a new full-service restaurant that opened last year in San Ramon\u2019s City Center Bishop Ranch. Akash Kapoor established the eatery in partnership with the Sarkar brothers. It\u2019s a departure for Kapoor, who built up his popular fast-casual Curry Up Now restaurant chain by repurposing U.S. Indian staples\u2014tikka masala, samosas, and naan among them\u2014into a more modern package. But the same instinct that spurred him to put a fresh spin on familiar dishes inspired him to feature less traditional fare at Khaki. \u00a0<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Khaki\u2019s lamb burrah kabab entr\u00e9e features prime single-cut chops.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Jesse Cudworth<\/p>\n
Yes, the stylish contemporary space with a full bar does serve butter chicken, because, as Kapoor acknowledges with a hint of resignation, \u201cyou have to put butter chicken on the menu.\u201d But it also prepares Delhi street-style chicken kebabs, a version of the fried jackfruit and potato cutlets popular in Kolkata, and a whole butterflied branzino wrapped in banana leaf with a coconut\u2013tomato masala common to the southern coastal state of Kerala. \u00a0<\/p>\n
\u201cWe didn\u2019t want to only do what people know, but to challenge what they know, too,\u201d says Kapoor. \u201cIf someone asks me what is Indian food, it\u2019s so hard to describe. It\u2019s not just chicken tikka masala, it\u2019s not biryani, and it\u2019s not samosa: It\u2019s 10,000 other things and 50 other cuisines.\u201d \u00a0<\/p>\n
Pippal has a similar regional focus. In addition to the restaurant\u2019s \u00e0 la carte offerings, every month executive chef Munish Rana creates a new tasting menu inspired by a different geographical part of India.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Pippal\u2019s momo dumplings are stuffed with chicken or mushroom and come with spicy chutney.<\/p>\n
Neetu Laddha<\/p>\n
In May, for example, Rana highlighted dishes from the western coastal states of Goa and Maharashtra, while in June he honed in on tribal flavors from the forested regions of Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand. In July, the menu spotlighted the country\u2019s mountainous northeast with dishes such as chaat flavored with a dressing made from dalle chilies from the state of Sikkim; handmade momo dumplings in a roasted tomato jhol; and a Himalayan-style ghathuk noodle soup with chicken, egg, and seasonal vegetables. \u00a0<\/p>\n
Each menu requires extensive research and recipe testing\u2014Bhambri says they often feature items that she herself has never tried or even heard of\u2014but is part of the restaurant team\u2019s vision of showcasing and celebrating cuisine rarely seen this side of South Asia. \u00a0<\/p>\n
\u201cIn India, if you travel 10 or 20 miles, the cuisine changes; even the language changes,\u201d she says. \u201cThere are so many curries, so many flavors; it\u2019s a complex food with so many spices and so much to showcase.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The fare at Bangalore Blues in Berkeley is inspired by the flavors of\u00a0South India.<\/p>\n
Courtesy of Bangalore Blues<\/p>\n
A Taste of Home\u00a0<\/p>\n
For Aravind Pochiraju, it\u2019s become something of a personal mission to highlight the authentic flavors of the southern Indian state of Karnataka. The tech entrepreneur grew up there, where his family was poor in money but rich in food. By necessity, the local population, including his mother and grandmother, made everything by hand, with no canned food shortcuts. That\u2019s something he\u2019s attempting to replicate at his new Berkeley restaurant, Bangalore Blues, where he insists every dish is prepared using the same scratch-made, farm-to-fork methods from his childhood, including grinding and mixing imported whole spices that form the backbone of the cuisine. Standouts on the menu include dosas roasted golden brown in house-made ghee and methodically prepared, layered South Indian\u2013style curries that can take upward of seven hours to prepare.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u201cAll our sauces are completely made from scratch,\u201d he says. \u201cThat way you know that you\u2019re getting food that tastes home-cooked. The best Indian food is cooked at home, and that\u2019s what my goal is to serve here.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n
The restaurant, however, looks far from homespun. Bathed in moody blue tones, Bangalore Blues could pass for a jazz club at first glance were it not for the tantalizing, spice-tinged smells wafting from the kitchen. A striking central bar serves craft beer, organic wine, and house cocktails to match a special multicourse tasting menu highlighting Karnataka specialties such as bonda fried potato fritters and chicken Manchurian. \u00a0<\/p>\n
Pochiraju, who started his culinary journey with a fast-casual concept, says he realized that to charge as much as he needs to for his labor-intensive food, diners expect an atmosphere to match. Fortunately, that seems to be an easier sell these days in a rapidly evolving Indian restaurant scene that\u2019s more accepting of change. \u00a0<\/p>\n
In the end, according to Kapoor, the bottom line remains the same as at any other upscale destination, be it Italian, Japanese, regional Indian, or otherwise.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u201cIt doesn\u2019t matter what it is. [With] a chicken dish, whether it\u2019s prepared in a North Indian versus South Indian way, the goal is flavor,\u201d says Kapoor. \u201cI think if the food is good, people will come and want it again and again.\u201d<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The AK Old Fashioned at \u202fKhaki Bar and Indian Canteen.<\/p>\n
Jesse Cudworth<\/p>\n
Shaken, Stirred,\u00a0and Spiced<\/p>\n
More restaurants are adopting\u00a0signature bar programs that put an Indian spin on classic cocktails.\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n
AK Old Fashioned,\u202fKhaki Bar and Indian Canteen: Cardamom bitters and jaggery\u2014an unrefined sweetener made from concentrated sugarcane or palm juice\u2014join bourbon, rye, and orange oil in this old fashioned.\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n
Jaljeera Vodkatini,\u202fthe Yellow Chilli: Jaljeera, a popular North Indian beverage made with cumin, tamarind, water, and fresh herbs, is spiked with vodka and served martini-style with an olive garnish.\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n
Kerala Backwaters,\u202fPippal: Rasam, a South Indian broth made from tamarind, tomatoes, and spices, lends a savory punch to this Bloody Mary\u2013esque vodka drink.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Mahal Mule,\u202fTaj Mahal Flavors of India: Mango chutney puts a twist on the classic Moscow Mule, served in a copper mug.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Royal Charter,\u202fEast Bay Spice Company: Chai syrup anchors this bourbon cocktail, served up with lemon, orange bitters, Czech liqueur, and an Italian aperitif.\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Shutterstock<\/p>\n
Beyond Butter Chicken\u00a0<\/p>\n
Check out these less common dishes from across the Indian subcontinent.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Chaat: Vik\u2019s Chaat in Berkeley was ahead of the curve in showcasing the delicious diaspora of Indian street snacks, including Mumbai-inspired vada pav, Delhi-style dahi papdi chaat, and the now seemingly ubiquitous pani puri: fried wheat spheres filled with spiced potatoes and chickpea and served with flavored water.\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n
Dosas, Uttapams, and Idlies: San Francisco\u2019s now-shuttered Dosa helped pave the way for restaurants such as Amrutha Vilas, Udupi Palace, and ID Caf\u00e9, which feature these increasingly popular South Indian specialties, typically served with sambar and chutney.\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n
Hyderabad Biryani: The Hyderabad version of this basmati rice dish (pictured above), often prepared with yogurt-marinated halal meat such as goat, is receiving star treatment at restaurants including Paradise Biryani Pointe, Biryaniz, and Biryani Junction.\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n
Indo-Chinese: Kolkata-style stir-fried Hakka noodles (Chandni Chowk), gobi Manchurian (Bangalore Blues), chili paneer (Gurkha Kitchen), and even momos in tikka masala (Urban Momo) are among the Chinese-influenced dishes popping up at various East Bay Indian restaurants.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Pippal brings regional Indian cuisine to its recently introduced location in Dublin. Neetu Laddha A cloud of steam…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":453668,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[34],"tags":[332,91683,80469,179219,143,145,144,1457],"class_list":["post-453667","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-oakland","tag-east-bay","tag-fine-dining","tag-indian-food","tag-modern-cuisine","tag-oakland","tag-oakland-headlines","tag-oakland-news","tag-restaurant"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/453667","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=453667"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/453667\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/453668"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=453667"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=453667"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=453667"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}