La Central fire-grilled tacos opened recently in Seminole Heights, and smoke is in the air.
The restaurant is tucked at the end of a quaint shopping center at 4410 N. Florida Ave. in Tampa, which also houses Blooming Floral Cafe and Gabby Bakes. A painted backdrop of a northern Mexican desert sets the scene on the large, covered patio, the restaurant’s sole al-fresco dining space.
Evoking chef Pablo Monfort’s time cooking throughout Mexico, La Central’s menu has a range of dishes centered around flame-grilled meat, primarily tacos al-carbon (charcoal-grilled). La Central grills four ways: with charcoal, gas, pellets and a smoker.
La Central offers carne asada fries ($12.95), norteno-style arrachera (skirt steak, $4.45) and chorizo Argentino tacos ($3.75), and a variety of grilled steaks. Tacos nortenos are served on warm flour tortillas and the street tacos are served on locally made corn tortillas.
Agua frescas ($3.95) made in-house, Mexican Coca-Cola ($3.95) and an assortment of Jarritos ($2.95) are available. A permit to sell beer and wine is pending.
La Central is a family-run business, with Pablo Monfort’s daughter, Paula Monfort, and son-in-law, Victor Viaz, sharing owner and operator duties. The team also own and operate Central Coffee & Sandwiches in downtown Tampa.
Pablo Monfort is currently helping to man the grills just to get La Central up and running. He’ll pass the restaurant off to his daughter and son-in-law in a month or two, then he’ll return to his native Uruguay, he said.
The spot’s menu is in the soft opening stages. Paula Monfort said her father plans to test specials to see what sticks, with plans to roll out dishes like “orejas de elefante” by next week. Known as “elephant ears,” they are a Mexico City specialty that have a base of chicken or beef milanesa (pounded flat, breaded and fried) that gets topped like pizza with ingredients such as melted cheese, eggs, bacon, ham and pineapple.
La Central joins a growing list of Seminole Heights restaurants that have opened on North Florida Avenue this year, such as J’s Asian Kitchen and Con Amor.