FORT PIERCE — For more than two decades, Mervis’ Cafe and Grille has served Cuban food from the same location in Fort Pierce, carrying on recipes and traditions that began with a family business in West Palm Beach more than 50 years ago.
For owners Ivel and Ivelisse Sierra, the restaurant is about more than food. It is a way to share Cuban culture with the community through family recipes, music and, now, a colorful mural taking shape on the building’s exterior.
The story of Mervis’ began with Ivel’s father, who operated a convenience store in West Palm Beach. In 1970, he began preparing Cuban food at the store, including Cuban sandwiches, pork sandwiches and steak sandwiches.
The business location eventually was taken by the Florida Department of Transportation, and the family closed it.
The family had a home in the Fort Pierce area and liked the community enough to move there in 2001.
“We said, ‘Let’s bring some of that food, cuisine and culture here,’” Ivel said.
Fort Pierce residents embraced the restaurant, and Mervis’ has remained at the same location ever since.
Mervis’ has another feature that may surprise first-time visitors: There is a small U.S. Post Office with a gift shop inside the restaurant.
When customers can stop in for their tostones, croquettes and empanadas, they can also mail letters and packages!
What’s in a name?
The restaurant name is also part of the family’s history. Mervis is Ivel’s mother’s name and the name his father used for the original business.
That name still occasionally brings customers through the door.
People who remember the West Palm Beach store sometimes walk into Mervis’ and ask whether it is the same business they knew years ago.
“Yes, it is,” Ivel said.
Sometimes, they aren’t even dining in.
“Give me a few Cubans. I want to take them with me,” he recalled customers saying.
A taste of home
Much of the food at Mervis’ traces back to Ivel’s mother and the recipes she learned from her own parents.
“Everything comes from Mom, mostly,” Ivel said.
For someone unfamiliar with Cuban cuisine, his recommendation is simple: Start with the Cuban sandwich.
During a recent visit, I went with another classic: masitas de puerco, or fried pork chunks, served with rice, beans and sweet plantains.
It was delicious and an easy introduction to why the Sierras describe the combination as a Cuban staple.
The menu also includes pollo asado, palomilla steak, steak sandwiches and pulled roasted pork served on Cuban bread.
Breakfast is another popular draw, with Cuban bread pressed with combinations such as bacon, egg and cheese or ham, egg and cheese.
And then there is the coffee.
A meal at Mervis’ can be finished with Cuban coffee, whether served alongside the food or afterward.
What makes a Cuban sandwich?
There is a certain amount of debate over what belongs on a proper Cuban sandwich.
At Mervis’, the foundation is traditional: ham, cheese, pickles, mustard and roasted pork.
Then comes one ingredient that can spark its own argument: salami.
Some Cuban sandwiches include it. Others don’t.
Mervis’ does.
The Sierras have been making their sandwiches the same way since 1970, following the tradition established at the family’s original business.
“We just put a few extra touches to it,” Ivel said.
For a restaurant that has spent decades making Cuban food, the sandwich is more than an item on the menu. It is a direct link between the family’s past and present.
A mural takes shape
That connection to Cuban culture is also becoming impossible to miss from the street.
A large mural on the outside of Mervis’ is nearing completion, transforming the building into a colorful landmark.
The project is part of a Fort Pierce Redevelopment Agency mural initiative designed to bring art to empty walls while incorporating the city’s diverse cultures.
The Sierras were shown several concepts and had input on the final design, including some minor changes. Much of the final design came from mural artist Sitki Dogan.
Dogan said he drew inspiration from Cuban architecture, music and dance.
He has painted other murals in Fort Pierce, including two completed in recent years.
Dogan said he is excited to see the city investing in murals and other artwork.
“The city tries to improve all empty walls and they are trying to bring in more art pieces,” he said.
At Mervis’, the reaction has been overwhelmingly positive.
Customers have watched the mural progress and followed updates posted online. People driving past have slowed down to get a better look.
For Ivel, the mural is another way to tell the story Mervis’ has been telling through food for more than 20 years in Fort Pierce.
The goal, he said, is for customers to leave with more than a full stomach.
“Just an overall positive experience,” he said. “Experience the culture, the food, the music playing in the background and just have a good time.”
Mervis’ Cafe and Grille is located at 402 S 5th Street and their website is www.merviscafe.com.