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For this year’s Top Restaurants list, I went big.
Big, as in 50 restaurants compared to last year’s 30. This would be easier to do, I told myself. Thirty is such a small number when considering Tampa Bay’s expansive dining universe.
But expanding this list to include 20 additional contenders actually made the process feel more selective — and more cutthroat. With a wider net cast, I considered more options than I ever have. (Seeing number 51 get slashed? Brutal.)
I had to ask myself some tough questions: Who is this list for? And what does it say about how we choose to dine right now? What I landed on, after a lot of thinking and many, many meals, is that it’s both a really great time and a really challenging time to dine out in Tampa Bay. (One note: While I considered any meal I had between October 2024 and November 2025 for this list, we decided that restaurants that opened after July 31 were not in contention this year.)
How I reported this year’s Top Restaurants list
The spectrum for culinary excellence in 2025 is quite wide. Mostly, that’s good: Diversity is paramount to fostering a rich dining scene. But restaurants in Tampa Bay are straddling an impossible divide, with ultra fine-dining and tasting menu spots going head-to-head with pop-ups, food trucks and other casual concepts. For diners, the financial chasm is only getting more difficult to cross.
This list features both restaurants that charge $300 per person for a meal and those where you can get in and out, after tax and tip, for less than $15. I’m not sure, exactly, what that says about the future of our dining scene, but I did witness something interesting while trying to suss it out.
What I saw was a good deal of scrappy ingenuity — clever and often unorthodox restaurant moves fueled by creativity and optimism, as opposed to big investor money or hard cash. I saw it at Small Bar, a temporary restaurant built out of a makeshift space in the back of a St. Petersburg coffee shop. I saw it at Lucky Tigre, where owner Julie Sainte Michelle Feliciano and her team createda full-service restaurant in less than three weeks (on little to no sleep) and promptly had lines out the door. I saw it at Franca’s, a pop-up making some of the very bestpizza in Tampa Bay from a wood oven on wheels. I even saw it at Rooster & The Till, a spot that arguably coined Tampa Bay’s scrappy brand a decade ago and has managed to hold onto it in impressive form.
As the cost of running a restaurant increases and diners find themselves unable to pay for some of the higher-ticket meals around town, this approach could help shine a light on where we might be heading. This list is for readers and diners all across the Tampa Bay area, after all, not just a select few.
It’s also, simply, my attempt to answer the question I get asked over and over again: Where should I go to dinner?
Sometimes, change can be good. When Lilac opened inside the Tampa Edition hotel, the high-end Water Street restaurant only offered a four-course prix-fixe menu — priced at $150 per person. Though the restaurant won a coveted Michelin star within its first year, not everything worked. Sensing the menu wasn’t appealing to a broad enough base, chef John Fraser embarked on some detours. This year, the chef added a la carte options alongside an expanded eight-course tasting menu, a decision that’s helped breathe flexibility into the posh restaurant’s approach. Dinners still begin with a tasty amuse-bouche selection, including the onion- and thyme-laced buttery “pain lyonnaise.” Guests would be wise to get the spice-crusted tuna appetizer, where thick, flavorful hunks of tuna come nestled in a smoky charred scallion sauce with a bright and zingy shaved fennel salad. The restaurant’s Dover sole is its biggest flex. But don’t overlook the slightly less flashy but just as delicious duck au poivre, where a crispy-skinned breast is coupled with duck leg confit and citrus-glazed carrots.
Don’t skip: Dover sole, spice-crusted tuna.
500 Channelside Drive, Tampa. 813-771-8022. lilacrestauranttampa.com/
When Baba opened in 2019, it was among the most exciting places to find contemporary Mediterranean cuisine. In the years since, the restaurant has undergone changes: a short-lived bakery adjacent to the spot was reimagined as a Greek ouzeri, a petite bar highlighting tinned fish and raw seafood. Both spots are experiencing a stellar renaissance, with a joint kitchen helmed by executive chef George Sayegh and chef de cuisine Jeremy Smith and a menu that feels rooted in tradition with contemporary twists. Diners should still start with the spread trio, paired with warm, puffy pita bread and a bouquet of bright and crunchy crudite. If you’re in the mood for tinned fish, Barbouni’s extensive collection is the best variety of conservas in Tampa Bay (I love the wood-smoked Danish blue mussels and Portuguese sardines swaddled in chile-spiked brava sauce). There’s some crossover on the menus, so regardless of which side of this curious marriage you dine, the grilled prawns are a good choice, served with charred lemon, Aleppo chiles, olive oil and mint.
Don’t skip: Grilled prawns, Portuguese sardines.
2701 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; 727-954-3406; eatatbaba.com
Outside, a large sign reading “TAMPA MADE” beckons diners into this funhouse of a barbecue restaurant. It’s an apt descriptor for the Old West Tampa spot, where pitmaster Danny Hernandez fuses his passion for Texas-style barbecue with a Tampeno flair and his Cuban roots. Inside the whimsical, maze-like space, there are smokers and grilling accoutrements; grab-and-go meats, sauces and pickles; a bar; two outdoor patios; and a wine shop. Homemade chorizo links arrive juicy, spicy and smoky, straight off the grill. A mango habanero barbecue sauce adds a little sweet heat to Akaushi wagyu brisket, which is great on its own but also finds its way into a brisket burger and a fun play on empanadas with pimento cheese. Don’t skip the bonbons, which look like dinner rolls but are filled with candy-like burnt ends and a beef tallow honey glaze. (Full disclosure: My partner has done some freelance design work in the past for The Brisket Shoppe.)
Don’t skip: Chorizo, banana pudding.
3501 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa. 813-879-4647. thebrisketshoppe.com/
Less than two years in, chef Michael Brannock’s homage to regional Mexican cuisine feels cemented in South Tampa’s dining culture. Perhaps no surprise, given the spot received Michelin recognition within its first few months of business. It deserves all the accolades. The contemporary taqueria’s menu hinges on beautiful nixtamalized corn tortillas, made with heirloom corn. Standout toppings include melt-in-your-mouth pork carnitas with smoky chile de arbol salsa and beer-battered fried grouper (served on flour tortillas) topped with cabbage, pico de gallo and a chipotle mayonnaise. Also excellent are the bluefin tuna tostadas, which pack a gingery punch from pickled chayote. And you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better tequila and mezcal list — or a margarita, for that matter — anywhere in town.
Don’t skip: Bluefin tuna tostada, mezcal margarita.
4004 Henderson Blvd., Tampa. 813-217-9158. streetlighttacos.com
You already know how good the breakfast sandwich is. How could you not, after chef and culinary celebrity Alton Brown pronounced it the “best breakfast sandwich ever”? But wait, there’s so much more to love at this petite sandwich spot and natural wine shop in downtown Tampa. The Italian Stallion, Chicken Salad Deluxe and Bangin’ BLT have garnered loyalists for a reason — they’re really, really good. If I’m craving a vegetarian break, though, the Chickpea Salad Supreme always hits, made with a roasted chickpea medley, vegan mayo, avocado, tomato, little gem lettuce and herbed ranch on crusty sourdough. Pro-tip: Order any sandwich “Dave’s Way” and get an add-on of pepper salad, parsley, onions and basil. Trust me, you want it “Dave’s Way.”
Don’t skip: Bacon, egg and cheddar sandwich; Chickpea Salad Supreme.
305 E. Polk St., Tampa. 813-202-3324. supernaturaltpa.com
Steaks smoldering on the grill. Chargrilled oysters under a bubbling cap of seafood butter. Golden-fried catfish nuggets served with a zippy Cajun remoulade. There’s a lot to love at this casual St. Petersburg steakhouse, which has been quietly, but steadily, thrilling diners-in-the-know since 2022. The under-the-radar spot, which sits in the shadow of Candlelight Inn on 34th Street N., is a team effort from brothers Joshua and Christian Jackson. The steaks here are top-notch (particularly the whopping 36-ounce Tomahawk). But the menu’s strong Southern undercurrent — a nod to the brothers’ father, who ran a restaurant in Baton Rouge, Louisiana — is the other reason folks travel from across town to dine here. Sides like collard greens, butter pecan whipped yams, truffle-laced mac and cheese and the decadent red velvet cake are hard to pass up.
Don’t skip: Chargrilled oysters, truffle mac and cheese.
3405 34th St. N., St. Petersburg. 727-346-5242. roamsteakhouse.com
Perhaps it shouldn’t come as a surprise that chef James Renew’s follow-up to his lauded Clearwater restaurant Little Lamb Gastropub is just as much of a hit. Downtown New Port Richey restaurant The Estuary opened in early 2023 and has solidified itself as one of the area’s best bets for chef-driven, contemporary New American cuisine. Renew’s focus on sustainable and local products is woven throughout the menu, which is frequently in flux. When in season, fresh figs appear on a bed of creamy stracciatella cheese, sidling Sweety Drop peppers and salty jamon serrano. Some of the menu’s hallmark dishes thankfully don’t budge, like the excellent pull-apart rolls served with smoked chicken butter or the golden-fried crab beignets dipped in creamy jalapeno-lime aioli.
Don’t skip: Crab beignets, hot fried chicken sandwich.
6220 Grand Blvd., New Port Richey. 727-807-5914. estuarynpr.com
When the esteemed Michelin Guide bestowed this Tampa restaurant and bakery a Bib Gourmand in its second year in the region, it didn’t exactly come as a surprise. At that point, chef and owner Christina Theofilos had already won local diners over with her winning spin on contemporary Greek cuisine. Pop in for brunch on any given weekend and you’re likely to find a jam-packed dining room and folks waiting in line for a table. Part of that is likely due to the restaurant’s aesthetic appeal: plush cushions, white-washed walls outfitted with light and dark blue accents, and an open-air patio that does a pretty convincing job mimicking a Mykonos terrace. But they’re also there for the food, from plump feta-brined chicken served atop bright green salad with a creamy wedge of feta cheese to hunks of juicy braised lamb leg tucked into warm pita with snappy tzatziki.
Don’t skip: Greek Chick salad; lamb pita.
701 N. Howard Ave., Tampa; 813-841-5555; eatpsomi.com
It’s the all-day concept that really sells Willa’s, the charming North Hyde Park restaurant from owners Nate Siegel and Merrin Jenkins. The duo looked to some of their favorite spots in New York City when designing their restaurant, bar and cafe in 2021, and it’s still one of the most reliable — and delicious — places to pop in for a meal, pretty much any time of day. Long-running staples include the ever-so-strong slow-roasted chicken with salsa verde, fries and aioli, and the crunchy tahini kale Caesar. On a recent visit, I fell hard for a crispy-skinned branzino, which arrived perfectly cooked with roasted fingerling potatoes, caramelized onions, brown butter-creamed kale and a lyonnaise sauce studded with capers.
Don’t skip: Rotisserie chicken frites, seared branzino.
1700 W. Fig St., Tampa. 813-519-4552. willastampa.com
Counter Culture weathered a pandemic (the spot opened in late 2019) and then a monthslong construction eyesore during renovations to the West Bay to Bay Boulevard development. But this contemporary New American restaurant is still serving some of the most creative and contemporary cuisine around, including Tampa’s best brunch. The spot, from five-time James Beard Award semifinalist chef Jeannie Pierola, pays tribute to counter-style dining, and the seats along the terrazzo-topped bar with views of Tampa Bay are the best in the house. There are some constants: The wood-grilled octopus with crispy pimenton and fried chickpeas and charred lemon has remained a favorite. And I’d be shocked to show up at brunch and not see the signature griddled coconut pecan morning bread or the pimento cheese biscuits drizzled in honey on every table. But because this is Pierola, things here are always in a wonderful state of experimentation.
Don’t skip: Pimento cheese biscuits, grilled octopus.
2909 W. Bay to Bay Blvd., No. 100, Tampa. 813-570-8660. cc-tampa.com
Oh, how we love a good Florida fish camp. Mullet’s is among the best iterations of the genre in Tampa Bay, a mostly outdoor restaurant that successfully marries contemporary, laidback St. Petersburg vibes (the spot’s new indoor tiki bar sports some of the ‘burg’s best cocktails) and old Florida tradition. All the typical fish camp staples are here — smoked fish spread, grouper sandwiches, peel-and-eat shrimp — and the model provides diners witha number of choices, including cooking style and sauce. Quality and sourcing are top-of-mind, so whether it’s mahi, snapper or grouper, it’s all a surefire bet. Also, the spot serves some of the very best smoked chicken wings. Get them with the Carolinas-esque house “Merman” sauce and a side of blue cheese dressing.
Don’t skip: Grouper sandwich, smoked wings.
3901 Sixth St. S., St. Petersburg. 727-205-6313. mulletsfishcamp.com
The way tohave a proper dinner at Bern’s is to let the restaurant roll out the red carpet and do its thing: the tableside Caesar, the piping-hot French onion soup, the impeccable steaks, the wine, the plethora of sides. And don’t for one second think about skipping the Harry Waugh Dessert Room — where else can you drape two scoops of macadamia nut ice cream in a tiny avalanche of hot fudge? But if reservations are hard to come by, as they almost always are, I’d suggest trying your luck at the restaurant’s beautifully renovated bar. You’re here for a good steak and excellent service, and Tampa Bay’s most celebrated spot has been treating diners to these unforgettable and one-of-a-kind experiences since 1956. An evening here might not feel contemporary, but it sure does feel timeless.
Don’t skip: Dry-aged Delmonico steak, macadamia nut sundae.
1208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa. 813-251-2421. bernssteakhouse.com
For their sophomore effort, Allelo proprietors Shawn and Jeanna Damkoehler took a swing at remodeling another Beach Drive mainstay. In what was once the corner building home to 400 Beach Seafood & Tap House, Juno & The Peacock has emerged as the downtown St. Petersburg promenade’s hottest new restaurant. I’m not sure there is a more beautiful bar top to sidle up to in all of Pinellas County — but the food also happens to be very good. The schtick here is loosely New American opulence. Think classics like oysters Rockefeller or crab Louie, but with a contemporary twist. Diners would be wise not to skip the excellent wagyu beef carpaccio topped with cured egg yolk and a truffle-Parmesan aioli, or the seafood scampi, featuring thick and bouncy bucatini wrapped around lump crab, lobster, shrimp and spinach.
Don’t skip: Wagyu beef carpaccio, Monica’s Cornbread.
400 Beach Drive N.E., St. Petersburg. 727-258-4222. junoandthepeacock.com/
The white rocking chairs along 18th Street S. are beckoning once again: Earlier this year, Lolita’s Wine Market went back to where it all started. After two years at the Morean Center for Clay, the team has comfortably settled back into their original digs on the edge of St. Pete’s Grand Central District. For longtime loyalists of the wine and charcuterie darling, the homecoming has been very welcome. Owners Kelly Rodriguez-Laureano and chef Alex Rodriguez excel at intimate hospitality and creative globally-inspired fare. Start a meal here with salty, spiced radishes and move on to a refreshing watermelon and feta salad, perhaps, or the crazy delicious chorizo- and Gorgonzola-stuffed dates, accompanied by pickled jalapenos and a bracingly fresh hearts of palm salad.
Don’t skip: Stuffed dates, lamb barbacoa.
16 18th St. S., St. Petersburg. 727-505-0503. lolitaswinemarket.com
A native of Monterrey, Mexico, Rene Valenzuela (of Taco Bus fame) is serving up tacos and burritos brimming with bright flavors, color and some slightly unorthodox ingredients (yes, there once was a stingray taco on the menu). But that’s just part of what makes this food so very fabulous and fun. Whether you’re hitting up the Seminole Heights food truck or the baby blue and bubblegum pink Ybor depot, tacos arrive on warm, earthy corn or flour tortillas. A recent visit featured braised pork belly hugging juicy hunks of smoky pineapple; golden-fried chile relleno filled with beef picadillo; and the brilliant Campechana, stuffed to the brim with seared steak, al pastor pork, avocado, roasted pineapple and cheese. A surprise vegetarian hit arrived oozing cheese and velvety oyster mushrooms. Every order is accompanied by a charred jalapeno and tomatillo sauce and a fiery, bright orange elixir made with chile de arbol. I like to grab an icy pineapple-kiwi agua fresca on my way out for a delicious and refreshing respite after all that heat.
Don’t skip: Campechana, oyster mushroom tacos.
4414 N. Nebraska Ave. and 2802 N. 16th St., Tampa. renesmexicankitchen.org/
Good Intentions has figured out how to excel at many things at once: It’s loud, fun and knows how to turn up for a party. But it’s also intimate and cozy — one of the best places in town to hug the horseshoe-shaped terrazzo bar and wind down over a Gibson or a glass of wine. Perhaps most importantly, Good Intentions serves vegan food that’s sure to appeal to pretty much anyone. Who can resist a bowl of silky, lemon-scented whipped “ricotta” drizzled with pistachio pesto and Sichuan chiles? Or the tahini-spiked Caesar, brimming with brightness and so much crunch? There’s always something new in the mix, from a Nashville-style hot tofu sandwich to the oh-so-satisfying spin on mofongo, which pairs garlicky mashed yucca and plantains with chimichurri, crispy planks of tempeh, broccolini and a creamy curry aioli.
Don’t skip: Tahini Caesar, mofongo.
1900 First Ave. S., St. Petersburg. goodintentionsfl.com
Romance is in the air at The Black Pearl, where freshly cut flowers adorn every table and there’s a soft hush to the dimly lit dining room. Since 1996, this downtown Dunedin fine dining gem has been the best spot for a North Pinellas splurge. Longtime chef Christopher Artrip has helmed the kitchen for more than two decades, and it’s that kind of longevity that fuels the menu’s time-tested consistency. Meals still start with a lovely bread service, including a recent spin on Brazilian pao de queijo served with a bright emerald chimichurri. The hallmark lobster and white truffle risotto hasn’t budged (why should it, when it’s just that delicious?). What the Black Pearl really excels in is impeccable service and expert wine advice. At a time when casual is making a strong comeback, a night at The Black Pearl is a nice reminder that sometimes getting a little fancy feels pretty good.
Don’t skip: Lobster and white truffle risotto, pork belly.
315 Main St., Dunedin. 727-734-3463. theblackpearldunedin.com
Small Bar was never supposed to be a restaurant of this caliber. And by this time next year, it might not be. But, for reasons mostly out of the owners’ control, this little gem of a St. Petersburg bar has quietly become one of the ‘burg’s best spots for a meal. Bandit Coffee Co. owners Joshua and Sarah Weaver, together with wine pro Seth Davis, opened this pop-up bar in the back of their Central Avenue coffee shop in summer 2024 as a way to preview their yet-to-open wine bar and restaurant Spitz. Construction lags and other delays have pushed that restaurant’s opening. And in the meantime, Small Bar has evolved. With chef Michael Roberts now at the helm, it feels like a grown-up version of itself. The menu is constantly changing — dishes, flavors, formats, cuisines. That might look like manchego doughnuts topped with boquerones on one evening or an American red snapper ceviche with salsa macha on another. Perhaps the most impressive feat is how each menu feels perfectly curated to what’s being poured behind the bar. While Roberts is slinging fried chicken with caviar and oysters, Davis keeps pouring the bubbles. A good time indeed.
Don’t skip: Manchego doughnuts, snapper ceviche.
2662 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. smallbarwinebar.com/
Pia’s in Gulfport has long been a Tampa Bay icon, and for good reason. Whether you’re sidled up to the lively bar, having a romantic dinner under the chandeliered back patio or sharing a nightcap across the street at Pia’s Veranda, there isn’t a bad seat in the house. Husband-and-wife team Pia and Tom Goff opened their rustic Italian trattoria back in 2005, and two decades later, the restaurant is still one of the area’s most sought-after reservations. Hearty dishes like the spaghetti di Bologna and the slow-braised osso bucco have remained constants and deserve every bit of hype. But what I love most are the weekly specials, including a recent butternut squash ravioli topped with crispy onions.
Don’t skip: Spaghetti di Bologna, lasagna.
3054 Beach Blvd. S., Gulfport. 727-327-2190. piastrattoria.com
Kosen arrived on the Tampa dining scene in fall 2023, at the height of the city’s foray into fine dining post-pandemic. The concept? An ultra high-end omakase restaurant highlighting contemporary Japanese cuisine, priced accordingly. In the years since, the restaurant has had some slips, including the since-shuttered neighboring kaiseki concept Ko and the loss of their highly touted opening chef Wei Chen. But under the current helm of executive chef Andrew Huang, Kosen appears to be sailing along just fine. A recent dinner consisting of 20 courses flowed effortlessly, showcasing a wide selection of pristine fish and seafood flown in from Japan, including slices of kamasu, a Japanese barracuda; buttery slices of shima aji, a striped jack; and a just barely torched, smoky slice of kinmedai, or goldeneye snapper. When it comes to expert beverage pairings, you’re in the very best of hands with head sommelier Zach Groseclose. And if it’screativecocktails you’re after, Mike Western, the restaurant’s director of beverage and sustainability, recently spearheaded the launch of Tanto, a lounge right next door.
Don’t skip: Wine and sake pairing; nigiri selections.
307 W. Palm Ave., Tampa. 813-999-1720. kosentampa.com/
Pulpo Kitchen + Lounge, which opened in late 2024 in St. Petersburg’s Grand Central District, is a creative love letter to Latin cuisine. It’s the latest from Pinellas County restaurateurs Jason Ruhe and Hope Montgomery, and for this spot, they’re pulling from a number of cuisines, including Mexican, Peruvian and Cuban. There’s a ropa vieja that’s given an acidic jolt from vinegar and tomatoes, and an empanada that swaps in duck confit for the typical beef picadillo, served with a zippy herb sauce and a turmeric-tinged aji amarillo. The menu is full of the culinary characteristics that have made Ruhe’s cooking such a success: colorful dishes packed with bright, lively flavors. Consider the restaurant’s namesake dish (pulpo means “octopus” in Spanish), which arrives perfectly charred, sidling crispy, smashed potatoes drizzled with aioli and topped with pickled Fresno peppers and an herb-packed chimichurri. It’s a solid interpretation of the classic Galician dish pulpo a la gallega, but with Ruhe’s iconic stamp.
Don’t skip: Duck empanadas, pulpo a la gallega.
2147 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. 727-202-8954. facebook.com/pulpokitchenandlounge
The vibrant flavors of the Levant are on full display at this Tampa Middle Eastern restaurant, in particular Jordanian, Palestinian and Syrian cuisines. It’s the first restaurant for chef Yousef Samara, a Jordanian software engineer-turned-chef whose multicultural culinary approach feels right at home on the edge of Temple Terrace. Meals begin with complimentary Palestinian pita bread and a dipping dish full of za’atar and fiery shatta (a preserved red chile paste), swimming in a pool of olive oil. There is plenty to pull from a well-worn Middle Eastern canon — creamy hummus; bright green, crispy falafel; smoky grilled chicken; lamb and beef kebabs sidling garlicky toum. But it’s Samara’s specialties that really delight. Whatever you do, don’t skip the mansaf ($25), Jordan’s national dish featuring slow-cooked lamb shoulder in a tangy, citrusy fermented yogurt sauce, served over a bed of marigold rice dotted with almonds and tucked beneath a thin sheath of flatbread.
Don’t skip: Olive Tree mixed grill, mansaf.
11508 N. 56th St., Tampa. 813-899-0111. olivetreebychefyousef.com
It’s not just tourists and beachgoers swinging by Uncle Funz Provisions in St. Pete Beach. Since launching the petite sandwich shop in 2023, husband-and-wife team Zack and Jennifer Gross have amassed a solid following, including a good number of chefs and industry insiders who remember Zack from his days at celebrated downtown St. Pete restaurant Z Grille. The hype is warranted. The creative, constantly changing menu usually features three daily sandwiches, rounded out by a couple of salads and snacky sides, including the excellent smoked grouper fish spread. A highlight on a recent visit featured thick hunks of herb-smoked pork paired with bright emerald stalks of garlicky broccolini and melted Provolone cheese on thick and crusty bread from Miami’s Sullivan Street Bakery. There are some standout repeat dishes, like the fan favorite apple with Brie combo. Paired with a creamy roasted garlic spread, jalapenos, hot honey and arugula, it’s the perfect bite of spicy, sweet and plenty of fresh crunch.
Don’t skip: Smoked pork sandwich, grouper spread.
6640 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach. 727-498-6873. instagram.com/unclefunz
It’s hard to bypass those golden-fried cornmeal-battered oysters, paired with a green tomato chutney and roasted corn aioli. The pecan-crusted rack of lamb is still delicious, and I hope they never, ever take the barbecue-spiced mushroom tartine off the menu. But a dinner at Mise en Place is never just about the food — it’s about the way you feel when dining here. Nearly four decades in, this seminal Tampa dining institution is still among the very best arguments for an upscale dinner. And the spot has long had a reputation as a culinary incubator for local talent: More than a few local chefs got their start here. The restaurant is about to embark on a big move, from its longtime home on West Kennedy Boulevard to a new location in Ybor City that opens in December. Proprietors Maryann Ferenc and chef Marty Blitz know a thing about taking risks and thinking outside the box. “We’ve always been explorers,” Ferenc told me earlier this year. “Our intention is to go and inspire other people to join us.” With food and hospitality this good, I’m sure they will.
Don’t skip: Mushroom tartine, cornmeal-crusted oysters.
1229 E. Eighth Ave., Tampa. miseonline.com
When the Little Lamb Gastropub opened at the end of 2016, the spot garnered attention for its edgy approach and bold flavors in an unassuming, cozy strip mall space. Now, chef and owner James Renew’s celebrated Clearwater restaurant feels worn in and comfortable, but just as relevant. Pub and bistro fare gets an elevated twist here: The steak tartare might look traditional enough — until you tuck into a bite of mustard ice cream. And the fan favorite fried cauliflower gets a sweet and savory bump, paired with a coconut caramel and dotted with golden raisins, almonds and chiles. Renew’s approach has always been thoughtful, and seasonal produce finds its way into several dishes. During the summer, fresh peaches graced a bourbon-laced cocktail as well as a killer pork collar, crispy-fried and swimming in a creamy Dijon sauce atop Anson Mill grits with shaved fennel and a pecan vinaigrette.
Don’t skip: Cauliflower, pork collar.
2475 N. McMullen Booth Road, Clearwater. 727-401-3339. thelittlelambgastropub.com/
It’s easy to feel priced out by a night out at Ebbe, chef Ebbe Vollmer’s Michelin-starred multicourse homage to New Nordic cuisine. Thankfully, there’s Fisk, Vollmer’s much more casual offshoot housed within the same building. Here, guests can sample more approachable dishes with the same Nordic charisma, prepared by the same team of pedigreed chefs at a significantly lower price point. A smoked salmon eclair gets a creative spin on the classic choux pastry with silky slices of hay-smoked salmon and a light egg salad, while a bright fuchsia beetroot tartare is paired with a punchy horseradish cream. The must-order dish is the restaurant’s namesake Fisk soup, a light yet creamy broth that arrives decorated with a mosaic of emerald green herb oil and bobbing with hunks of snapper and salmon, zingy with so much lemon, fennel and dill.
Don’t skip: Smoked salmon eclair, Fisk soup.
1202 N. Franklin St., Tampa. 813-284-8276. fiskebbe.com
This year, Ponte got a big break: After months (and months), the celebrated fine dining restaurant’s Gramercy Bar finally reopened. An evening spent inside Ponte’s elegant dining room is always swell for a special occasion — the menu from James Beard-nominated chef Chris Ponte is firing on all cylinders, and if it’s a white tablecloth vibe you’re after, this is the spot. But the swanky Gramercy Bar might be Tampa’s best restaurant bar. The ceilings are tall, the service is poised and swift, and the creative cocktail program is one of the best around. And, of course, the food is very good. Start with the buttery Parker House rolls and move on to the genius take on a deconstructed Caesar salad. Though there’s not a ton of movement on this menu, there is consistency and dishes that remain popular for that very reason. I can’t imagine doing without the delicious salmon “wagyu” bites, where buttery planks of salmon top crispy fried rice cubes with jalapenos and a spicy uni aioli. For the epitome of Ponte’s time-tested culinary chops, look no further than his celebrated wild mushroom soup, a dish decades in the making featuring a bouquet of woodsy wild mushrooms, truffle cream and black trumpet dust.
Don’t skip: Mushroom soup, salmon “wagyu.”
1010 Gramercy Lane, Tampa. 813-582-7755. pontetampa.com
When a piece of steak or fish sears in a cast-iron skillet, the smell of butter and garlic wafts through the petite dining room. You might be able to hear your neighbor’s conversation, and you most certainly will get to know your server, because she’s just that friendly. Since 2017, chefs and owners Jason and Erin “Cricket” Borajkiewicz have been turning out creative New American fare from the confines of this tiny Dunedin strip mall space. Though the couple spent part of this year in Maine, longtime employee Tom Cochrane ran the kitchen in the interim as chef de cuisine, and the restaurant hasn’t skipped a beat. Puffy rounds of piping-hot naan are a constant, but revolving sides might include an inky olive tapenade dotted with crisped chickpeas or a creamy, sweet and subtly hot burrata and nduja combination. Because this list is publishing in November, it feels apt to end with a recent standout: crispy-skinned duck hugging parsnip puree and sauteed mushrooms with a tableside pour of umami-packed thyme jus — essentially, fall on a plate.
Don’t skip: Seared beef tartare, duck breast.
420 Patricia Ave., Dunedin. 727-735-4257. restorativerestaurant.com.
Thirteen years in, dishes at this Tampa restaurant still arrive with chef Jeannie Pierola’s signature flair. A recent visit featured a globetrotting menu that included an excellent nikkei-inspired tuna ceviche that fused Japanese and Peruvian flavors, including a wasabi-spiked tiger’s milk, sesame seaweed salad, charred avocados, crispy quinoa and salmon roe. The Thai-inspired Hat Yai fried chicken came hugging purple sticky rice, a papaya atchara with banana ketchup and a schmaltz aioli; while a brilliant street corn agnolotti carried a smoky, not-so-subtle heat from guajillo chiles that kept me coming back for more. One thing is for sure: A visit to Edison is still just as exciting as it was a decade ago.
Don’t skip: tuna ceviche, street corn agnolotti.
912 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa. 813-254-7111. edison-tampa.com
It’s impossible to talk about Tampa Bay’s omakase landscape without a serious shout-out to brothers Arte and Rexley Kwok, who launched their trailblazing Japanese restaurant in downtown St. Petersburg in 2018. Rexley is the restaurant’s executive chef, while Arte runs the front of the house, chatting with guests while generously filling up brightly colored sake glasses. If Tampa Bay’s other omakase experiences feel polished and finessed, this one imbues a slightly more casual, old-school touch. The food is still incredible, but there’s a more relaxed approach. The 10-seat bar is home to two seatings per night — a nigiri omakase and a signature 20-dish omakase, the latter of which weaves through a selection of small plates before moving into an impressive and lengthy nigiri course. I particularly loved a dish of cold-smoked bronzini with trout caviar and a delicious plate of cold somen noodles, wrapped into a nest and topped with silky uni (sea urchin) and salty salmon roe.
Don’t skip: sake pairing, uni and ikura somen.
214 Second St. N., St. Petersburg. 727-835-8478. rexleysushi.com
Earlier this year, Julie Sainte Michelle Feliciano finally moved her wildly popular Filipino American concept into her first brick-and-mortar restaurant. Now, fans can pull up a bright green bar stool inside a petite, colorful dining room and savor Feliciano’s fiery carrot beef dumplings and salted ube caramel Mylk tea. Dining here is like stepping into someone’s quirky living room, outfitted with plants, dangling disco balls and vintage Tiger Balm and Silver Swan soy sauce ads. With additional space and some time, Feliciano’s menu will expand. For now, it’s the time-honored staples she’s perfected over the years that are better than ever: craggy, crunchy mochi-battered chicken bao buns, coated in a sweet and spicy adobo glaze; barbecue king mushrooms swimming in a five-spice-spiked sauce; crispy lechon kawali, paired with tamarind aioli and a sweet chili carrot sauce.
Don’t skip: Mochi-fried chicken, pulled chicken adobo.
1901 N. Howard Ave., Tampa. theluckytigre.com
Don’t let the unassuming strip-mall storefront fool you: Flaming Mountain serves some of the very best northern Chinese and Sichuan dishes in Tampa. The restaurant opened near the University of South Florida’s Tampa campus in 2022 and has since become synonymous with the hallmarks of the cuisine, including hearty meat soups and stews, grilled meats, and flavors imbued with smoke and plenty of spice. The lip-tingling buzz from Sichuan peppercorns is a big part of the allure. The fruity, fiery peppercorns pop up in a standout dish of dry-fried green beans, which arrive studded with ginger, garlic and bright red chile peppers; and in a fantastic mapo tofu, featuring silky cubes of tofu jiggling in a crimson pork-studded sauce. The other draw here is the skewers, especially the cumin- and chile pepper-rubbed lamb skewers and a fantastic chile-spiked eggplant that’s rendered almost pudding-like on the grill.
Don’t skip: dry-fried green beans, beef noodles.
13520 University Plaza St., Tampa. 813-609-8888. flamingmountaintampa.com
When did Beach Drive become hip again? I’d wager it was around the time 1Shawn and Jeanna Damkoehler set their sights on the posh (but, let’s face it, a little tired) promenade — and certainly when their stunning flagship restaurant Allelo opened. The upscale Mediterranean-inspired spot was a welcome shakeup for downtown St. Petersburg’s culinary scene, an elegant restaurant with a creative menu that’s managed to stay elevated but still deeply approachable. Under the helm of culinary director Nick Ocando and executive sous chef Tim Lentsch, the kitchen turns out beautifully composed dishes, including a showstopper octopus and the irresistible grilled branzino, which arrives perfectly bronzed and nestled in crispy quinoa and a zippy salsa verde. For Old World oenophiles, there’s no better place to pop in for a glass (or two) under the tutelage of sommelier Michelle Richards, where one is always in good hands.
Don’t skip: octopus, branzino.
300 Beach Drive N.E., No. 128, St. Petersburg. 727-851-9582. allelostpete.com
It’s impossible not to be charmed by an evening at this diminutive but oh-so-lovely gem of a restaurant. What the spot lacks in size (the restaurant seats just 26 people), it more than makes up for in ambiance, a creative globetrotting menu and a killer wine list. Dayna Bennett and partner Ian Florence opened Calida on a stretch of St. Pete’s Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Street in early 2023 and haven’t skipped a beat since. The menu, which changes all the time, draws inspiration from the couple’s travels. A recent visit highlighted creamy cold-water oysters from Washington state topped with creme fraiche and caviar; a summer-into-fall salad of burrata and juicy plums; and a perfectly cooked chicken thigh sidling couscous with a mint and pesto puree. Yes, the food is fantastic. But it’s the intimate atmosphere and warm hospitality from Bennett that steal the show every time.
Don’t skip: oysters, chicken thighs.
2909 Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. St. N., St. Petersburg. 727-202-0263. calidastpete.com
Ever hear of a French taco? The owner of this St. Petersburg French-Moroccan restaurant wants to make sure you do. Since launching his pop-up spot inside St. Pete’s Foodie Labs, chef Taoufik Abdelmoula has attracted a ton of fanfare for his design-your-own mashup. Reminiscent of a burrito and inspired by a classic Parisian late-night bite, it’s stuffed with crispy French fries and filled to the brim with grilled meats, vegetables and sauce. There’s also a lot more on the menu. A dish named un peu de tout — French for “a bit of everything” — is the best option for guests looking to try it all, including crispy-fried falafel, creamy labneh and hummus, a Moroccan ratatouille, and an emerald green tabbouleh served with warm za’atar pita bread ($23). It’s hard not to swoon when the restaurant’s showstopper lamb tagine arrives. Slow-roasted for close to 10 hours, the shanks are juicy and soft, cradled by a sweet-and-savory medley of caramelized onions, apricots and preserved lemon.
Don’t skip: tabbouleh, lamb tagine.
2735 Fifth Ave. N., St. Petersburg. 727-437-8166. cybelfusion.com
In my six years as the Tampa Bay Times food and dining critic, I’ve come across two truly memorable pizzas. One was served at the widely celebrated but since shuttered Pizzeria Gregario in Safety Harbor. The other was from Franca’s, a nomadic wood-burning pizza oven on wheels. Franca’s may not have a brick-and-mortar restaurant, but get a slice of their naturally leavened sourdough pies and I promise you, you won’t mind. This stuff is just that good. Owner Michael Thill launched his “Neapolitan-Roman hybrid” concept in summer 2024 and has since garnered a massive fanbase, popping up outside coffee shops and breweries across the bay. Folks will cross bridges for his perfect pizzas, with crusts made from organic milled grains and topped with buffalo milk mozzarella and a wide variety of creative toppings, often sourced from local farmers markets. In the past, I’ve fallen hard for a nduja and jalapeno pie, made with a spicy soft sausage, Calabrian chile cream, garlic, buffalo mozzarella, hot honey and sea salt. The Sicilian-style focaccia squares are also killer, and don’t sleep on the spot’s tahini hummus with za’atar, pickled red onions and a fiery harissa — served with perfect little pillows of puffy pita bread, straight from the oven.
Don’t skip: Nduja and jalapeno pie, hummus with pita.
With just 26 seats, a martini-heavy cocktail program and late-night lounge vibes, it would be easy to write off Slim Charmer as merely another place to drink. And this sultry spot from the owners of neighboring Wild Child is a very fun place to do just that. But Slim Charmer punches above its culinary weight with an envelope-pushing menu that changes seasonally and draws inspiration from all over Europe. This shouldn’t come as a surprise with executive chef Rob Reinsmith and chef de cuisine Scott Grimm running the kitchen. Each of the dozen or so dishes feels perfectly suited for pairing with one of the excellent drinks on the beverage menu, another rotating gem curated by beverage director Sydney Knowlton. The pitch-perfect 50/50 martini would go great with pretty much everything, from the yuzu- and tarragon-scented razor clams to the stracciatella- and caviar-topped focaccia. Or soak up your cocktail with the brilliant housemade potato chips that arrive layered with salty speck ham and raclette foam — one of my favorite bites this year. And never skip the spot’s rotating seasonal salad. The fall feature is particularly stunning, pairing roasted delicata and kabocha squashes with creamy sheep’s milk cheese, crunchy pepitas, fried sage and a sherry-maple vinaigrette.
Don’t skip: Razor clams, potato chips and speck.
2706 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. instagram.com/slim_charmer
Since 2020, the team over at Patti’s Kitchen has been slinging some of Tampa Bay’s best Thai noodle dishes, including the showstopping Thai boat noodles — tew nam tok — featuring a thick pork broth heavy with warm spice, strips of marinated pork, pork meatballs and water spinach. Owners Sithisak “Pooh” Wongasawanuek and Phonphen “Patti” Kanjanakrairoek were inspired by Bangkok-style street noodles when designing their menu, and the spot pays homage to several tasty renditions of soups generally not found elsewhere in Tampa Bay. Guests can doctor the bowls to their liking, with add-ons like Chinese broccoli, crispy pork rinds, bean sprouts and plenty of spice. It’s not just the noodles that shine: The buttery golden curry puffs paired with a vinegary cucumber salad are not to be skipped. If you can’t make the trip to Bangkok anytime soon, a pop-in to Patti’s is your next best bet.
Don’t skip: Thai curry puffs, tew nam tok.
6527 Park Blvd., Pinellas Park. 727-289-4153. facebook.com/eatatpattisthai
For more than two decades, chef Suzanne Lara has been quietly wowing diners from the confines of kitchens across Tampa. None of them, until now, have been her own. At Lara, which opened in January, the chef finally has her own pedestal. Already, the restaurant has settled comfortably into its cozy and quirky East Seventh Avenue digs. Much of the menu reads like a love letter to Tampa and the multicultural melting pot that is Ybor City. Take the picadillo char-tar, where Lara takes the flavors emblematic of a Cuban picadillo and weaves them into a glorious spin on steak tartare. Silky squiggles of chicken liver pate are adorned with a fruity guava gelee, while a genius take on Italian fritto misto looks to Tampa’s Oceanic Market for inspiration. Lara’s creative culinary chops are matched by an equally fun cocktail program, all of which make for one of the most exciting restaurant debuts this year.
Don’t skip: Picadillo char-tar, Oceanic Market fritto misto.
1919 E. Seventh Ave., Tampa. tampalara.com
Ten years after chef Ferrell Alvarez wowed diners with Rooster & The Till, his restaurant group swung big again and launched Ash, at Tampa’s posh Water Street development. Billed loosely as an “Italian-inspired” concept, the menu has gone through several iterations, but the restaurant finally hit its stride earlier this year. It’s a huge boon to the glitzy neighborhood — Ash is Water Street’s best restaurant yet. Seth Temple is helming operations as chef de cuisine, while Alvarez is overseeing the overall culinary direction. And though Ash and Rooster & The Till are distinct, the chef’s style is evidenton this menu, too. Crispy planks of focaccia accompany a plate of silky boquerones (white anchovies) glistening in a chile-scallion olive oil. Chicken liver mousse is paired with a tart marmalade made with Cara Cara oranges, dusted with a rosy dehydrated beet powder and finished off with pickled ramps. The menu’s strongholds include a fried rabbit served with hot honey, pickled onions and cambozola, and an excellent pasta program. But the real piece de resistance is undoubtedly the ribeye tagliatelle, served alongside juicy confit tomatoes and crispy fried potatoes.
Don’t skip: Wagyu strozzapreti, ribeye tagliatelle.
420 S. Nebraska Ave., Tampa. 813-221-9191. ashtampa.com
Tucked in a strip mall off West Hillsborough Avenue in the shadow of Tampa International Airport, Royal Thai serves an impressive and creative selection of regional Thai specialties. Husband-and-wife owners Chanon Siriphaisan and Sakaewan Pansaen debuted their small but mighty restaurant in fall 2024 — and have since received widespread attention for their extensive approach to Thai cuisine. Dishes like shrimp sashimi, butterflied open like orchid petals; crispy fried chicken wings accompanied by a scallion- and chile-laced dipping sauce; and barbecued pork belly, draped in a sauce warm with spice and star anise, are just a few examples of Siriphaisan’s culinary prowess. His approach takes inspiration from all over Thailand, including the Isan-style dishes found in the country’s northeast region bordering Laos and Cambodia. That includes the showstopper nam khao tod, where crispy rice is paired with fermented pork sausage and tossed with a jumble of cilantro, sliced ginger, thick slivers of red onions and crunchy roasted peanuts.
Don’t skip: Shrimp sashimi, nam khao tod.
5011 W. Hillsborough Ave., Suite A; Tampa. 813-392-2080. royalthaitampa.com
What opened in 2021 as a small seafood market and boutique grocer has grown into one of Tampa Bay’s most popular restaurants. Last year, Jon and Mary Kate Walker’s ode to fresh seafood and local produce snagged a “recommendation” from the esteemed Michelin Guide. It’s hype that’s well-warranted: This charming downtown Safety Harbor restaurant is still the best place for fresh fish and seafood in Tampa Bay. There’s a subtle Southern undercurrent running through the menu (Jon Walker previously cooked in New Orleans and managed a seafood distribution businessin Birmingham, Alabama), but mostly, the preparations here focus on high-quality fish and techniques that let the ingredients shine. A spicy sesame tuna tartare is coupled with pickled red onions and crispy house kettle chips; cheesy crawfish arancini arrive in bright romesco sauce; and the fried seafood po’boys are the best this side of Louisiana, made with crispy loaves imported straight from New Orleans. (Full disclosure: My partner has done some freelance design work in the past for The Tides Market.)
Don’t skip: Crawfish arancini, bacon jam and pimento cheeseburger.
305 Main St., Safety Harbor. 727-699-8433. thetidesmarket.com
Earlier this year, right around the restaurant’s 10-year anniversary, I stopped by Brick & Mortar for an impromptu dinner. The downtown St. Petersburg spot was abuzz with a steady weeknight crowd, lively but somehow still intimate. Hope Montgomery, who, together with chef Jason Ruhe, runs the restaurant, was behind the bar, topping off champagne glasses for a celebratory toast. It’s been a busy year for the couple, who also launched their widely anticipated Latin restaurant Pulpo and continued to run seafaring Tierra Verde spot Sea Worthy. One could excuse their focus wavering a bit. But Brick & Mortar is better than ever. A decadent dish of handmade pappardelle comes hugging juicy, sweet hunks of blue crab, wrapped in a creamy sauce spiked with Fresno peppers. Steamed Prince Edward Island mussels swim in a chorizo-studded sauce with creamy white beans and sharp blue cheese. And the burger with punchy white cheddar and bacon-onion jam is still the best in town. More than anything, though, it’s the couple’s love of feeding people delicious food in an intimate, welcome setting that keeps this spot shining.
Don’t skip: Spicy crab pasta, B&M burger.
539 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. 727-822-6540. brickandmortarstpete.com
The latest from the Tastes Pretty Good group (Rocca, Streetlight Taco), Bar Terroir takes a page straight from the book of Parisian bistronomy, turning out classic French cooking with a contemporary edge. Yes, steak frites, cassoulet and escargot are all on the menu. But while the kitchen takes care to honor classic French tradition, it’s focusing on elevated and technique-driven cuisine, fusing the casual feel of bistro dining with high-end gastronomy. Take the brilliant shrimp cocktail, where herb-flecked Key West pinks come hugging a rimmed coupe filled with a sumac-laced cocktail sauce. Or the steak tartare, paired with crispy beef tendon “chips,” which are not unlike an airy, crunchy chicharron. If I had to design my perfect meal, it would involve splitting the salad verte, swaddled in a tangy green goddess dressing, and the roasted heritage chicken, which arrives crispy-skinned and sidling smoky sweet potatoes and garlic confit, everything swimming in a rich and sultry foie gras jus. It perfectly encapsulates what this restaurant is all about.
Don’t skip: Shrimp cocktail, steak tartare.
3636 Henderson Blvd., Tampa. 813-535-7922. barterroir.co
It’s hard not to be wowed by the stunning dining room at Elliott Aster. Outfitted with low-slung booths, black-and-white photographs of St. Petersburg’s past, multitiered pendant chandeliers and 100-year-old frescoes, the Vinoy Resort & Golf Club’s new restaurant is hands-down the most gorgeous spot to debut this year. But wait — the food is also excellent. Lee Wolen, of Chicago’s acclaimed Boka Restaurant Group, is running operations at this upscale Italian steakhouse. Dishes like the light and zingy insalate di mare, flecked with chiles and tarragon, and a black truffle-laced beef tartare provide a first glimpse of the careful finesse taking place behind kitchen doors. The must-order pull-apart focaccia arrives with a wildflower honey glaze, sporting an irresistible sweet-and-salty hit from taleggio and pecorino cheeses. And the spot’s particularly strong pasta program includes the showstopper beef cheek tortelli filled with melt-in-your-mouth red wine-braised beef cheeks, dusted with Parmesan and finished with an aged balsamic vinegar. It’s one of the best things I’ve eaten all year.
Don’t skip: Focaccia, beef cheek tortelli.
501 Fifth Ave. N.E., St. Petersburg. 727-824-8072. elliottaster.com
Nobody masters the local omakase game better than Koya. What began as a pandemic gamble has evolved into one of the area’s most creative homages to upscale Japanese cuisine — and the first Tampa Bay restaurant in this genre to garner a coveted Michelin star. Some crowd favorites always grace the menu: There’s the perfect bite of silky uni wobbling on brown butter-soaked milk bread with the crunch of Fuji apples, and the salted banana cream-filled chocolate cone drizzled with miso caramel and topped with Osetra grandeur caviar. If either of those dishes disappeared, I’m almost certain there would be a revolt. But what makes Koya stand out is chef and owner Eric Fralick’s constant experimentation and the menu’s ongoing seasonal evolution. Aided by chef de cuisine Adam Finzel and a stellar cadre of cooks doing double-time as servers, an evening here is always a culinary thrill.
Don’t skip: Bafun uni, aori ika.
807 W. Platt St., Tampa. 813-284-7423. koyatampa.com.
When Wild Child first opened on a still-sleepy stretch of St. Pete’s Central Avenue in 2020, it sparked a new kind of dining that would set the tone for so much to come in the now-bustling Grand Central District. That’s what really good food, excellent hospitality and solid vibes can do for a block. Dishes here excel with bright, bold flavors and a playful yet finessed presentation, backed by a menu that’s always on the move. In the five years since owners Rob Reinsmith and Matt Kaye launched their tropical neighborhood spot, I have never — not once — had a meal that didn’t completely delight. The spot’s inventive, tropical spirit extends to a wildly creative cocktail program curated by beverage director Chris Trull with drinks like a pumpkin mole martini or the always popular Lost Weekend, a refreshing combo of watermelon, mint, lime and agave — plus your liquor of choice. On any given day, you’d be hard-pressed to tear me away from the salsa-macha-draped tuna tostadas or the Korean-fried chicken sandwich. But it’s the ever-changing menu — with surprise hits like a vegan mushroom and veggie-packed paella, paired with a creamy cashew crema, and the spicy shiitake mushroom dumplings — that keeps me coming back.
Don’t skip: Tuna tostadas, mushroom paella.
2710 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. 727-954-7425. wildchildstpete.com
No matter how many times I dine at Il Ritorno, I always leave surprised. Chef David and Erica Benstock’s celebrated downtown St. Petersburg restaurant has made a name for itself with upscale Italian cuisine since 2013, but that doesn’t tell the whole story. Take a closer look at the menu and you’ll catch a whiff of the ephemeral force that keeps this stunning spot spinning. The menu changes seasonally: a summer prelude of confit tomato with an icy watermelon granita and ricotta salata; an autumnal salad of grilled baby romaine and endive swathed in a walnut-sherry vinaigrette. The spot’s Grand Tasting menu is pricey, but worth every penny for its dynamic lineup of innovative dishes. Maybe it was the silky stracciatella paired with preserved clementines and crispy sage-green gnocco fritto or the light and summery corn tortellini hugging guanciale in a smoked tomato elixir I sampled on a recent visit, but I’m pretty sure Il Ritorno has never been better.
Don’t skip: Stracciatelle with jamon iberico, corn tortellini.
449 Central Ave. N., No. 101, St. Petersburg. 727-897-5900. ilritornodowntown.com
Chef and owner Bryce Bonsack’s love letter to Italian cuisine is as impressive as the day it opened in 2019. Though some dishes may come off as deceptively simple, Rocca has a technique-driven kitchen where attention to detail, high-quality ingredients and a whole lot of finesse are at play. I like starting an evening with the restaurant’s perfect Manhattan while savoring the salty nuggets of aged Parmesan that serve as a precursor to a meal. The shrimp fritti, draped in silky slices of speck and a velvety beurre blanc, is always a hit, as is the genius little gem salad, blanketed in salty pecorino Romano cheese and the zingiest of anchovy vinaigrettes — easily my favorite salad in all of Tampa Bay.And the agnolotti, filled with spicy salame calabrese, and the light-as-air spaghetti al limone, with sweet morsels of blue crab and zucchini, are still some of the very best pasta dishes around. The menu has evolved over time, but without the heavy ebb and flow seen at some other spots. That’s more than OK. When we’re talking about the oh-so-popular tableside mozzarella service or a dry-aged Rohan duck, would you really want it to change?
Don’t skip: Shrimp fritti, spaghetti al limone.
323 W. Palm Ave., Tampa; 813-906-5445; roccatampa.com.
When Rooster & The Till opened in 2013, it ushered in a new era of dining for Tampa Bay. The petite, 37-seat restaurant from chef Ferrell Alvarez and Ty Rodriguez was doing something different, and everyone was watching. It didn’t take long for the accolades to pour in. In 2017, Alvarez was named a semifinalistfor the prestigious Best Chef: South award from the James Beard Foundation. Over a decade later, I’m naming it my top pick of the year. Why? Because Rooster & the Till still feels like the most exciting place to dine in Tampa Bay.
There’s a constant state of experimentation at play, so no dinner is ever quite the same. Plenty of the good stuff has remained, an impressive feat amid so much flux in the local restaurant industry. An ingenious fan favorite — a sticky, sweet, spicy cobia collar — is as solid as ever. But the longevity that impresses me the most is Alvarez’s commitment to building up his city’s culinary talent within the ranks of his own kitchen. Yes, this is a restaurant that will appease diners to many ends. But the culture fostered within the confines of this lively Seminole Heights spot deserves applause. The company has a reputation for nurturing up-and-coming talent, and former employees have gone on to launch their ownculinary endeavors after formative years here. For 10 years now, an annual dinner series has brought in chefs from across the country, another example of Rooster’s commitment to innovation and collaboration.
During Feeding Tampa Bay’s annual Epic Chef series earlier this year, I watched in awe as 20-year-old Angel Gaston competed head-to-head with chefs from some of the area’s best restaurants. Gaston, recently promoted to chef tournant, has been at Rooster for just over a year — on the line most nights, working side-by-side with chef de cuisine Luke Hand, who, with Alvarez, is in constant conversation about the spot’s ever-evolving menu. On a recent visit, that included some of the very best dishes I’ve had all year: grilled Australian king prawns, nestled in a curried cashew butter with pickled beets and daikon, tucked under a bevy of fresh herbs; crispy-edged, charred cabbage paired with a malted peanut crunch, green papaya and a yellow Thai curry; and show-stopping sticky-and-sweet char siu pork ribs, paired with pickled kohlrabi and a creamy miso ranch. Dinner here is still a celebration. On every single occasion, I leave feeling well-fed and eager to return. What more could you ask for in a restaurant?
6500 N. Florida Ave., Tampa. 813-374-8940. roosterandthetill.com.
Don’t skip: Cobia collar, char siu pork ribs.
Reporter: Helen Freund
Editor: Michelle Stark
Photo editor: Martha Asencio-Rhine
Photographers: Martha Asencio-Rhine, Douglas R. Clifford, Jefferee Woo, Dirk Shadd and Luis Santana
Engagement: Meaghan Habuda, Kelsey Harrell and Neha Seenarine
Web design: Justinian Hatfield and Langston Taylor
Copy editing and print design: Amy Gehrt and Lisa Merklin
Tampa Bay Times food and dining critic Helen Freund spent the year eating hundreds of meals at Tampa Bay restaurants. She traversed three counties to look for restaurants that stood out. Compiling a list of 50 top spots means eating at many more: Freund dined out four or five times a week, visiting new eateries and places that have been in the region for years. The Times pays all dining expenses. A team of editors, photographers, videographers, designers and engagement producers worked to bring Helen’s list to our tbt*/Weekend section and to tampabay.com. Projects like this are only possible with your support. Please consider subscribing or making a tax-deductible donation to the Times Journalism Fund.