Auto Inn Tavern & Restaurant’s meatball sandwich and onion ring basket. -LAURA TICHY / FLORIDA WEEKLY

The Dish: Great Lakes tavern fare

The Place: Auto Inn Tavern & Restaurant, 4805 S Cleveland Ave. #A, Fort Myers; 239-245-7837; www.autoinntavern.com

The Details:

A new 16-screen sports bar has come to town, but with its big, comfy booths, darts, a pool table, vintage Chicago sports memorabilia and old bar and car doo-dads, it has more of an old neighborhood tavern vibe. The memorabilia and many of the recipes for the dishes on the Italian-leaning menu are actually family heirlooms, passed down to the owner-operator of this bar. As explained on the menu, Adam Olszewski’s great-grandfather founded the original Auto Inn that operated in Rockford, Ill., from 1957 to 2001. Now, the bar and grill has been reincarnated in Fort Myers. Nodding to their die-hard faith as Chicago sports fans, a banner in the bar advertises several limited discount drinks that are listed as being “forever specials or until Da’ Bears win the Superbowl, ha, ha.”

Auto Inn Tavern & Restaurant’s side salad. -LAURA TICHY / FLORIDA WEEKLY

The menu offers pub grub, such as wings, burgers and pizza, along with Chicago-area specialty sandwiches (Chicago hot dog, Italian beef, etc.) and a half-dozen pasta entrees, as the original Auto Inn was known for its pasta. The meatball sandwich ($14.99) tastes like the meatballs and marinara must be grandma’s recipe. Three large, hearty meatballs nestled into a crinkle crust hoagie roll are smothered in mozzarella, and the marinara seeps up through the cheese in the oven, creating a marbled appearance that hints at the intensely rich tomato sauce beneath. A dill pickle and choice of chips, fries or tots round out the plate.

The onion ring basket ($10.99) makes a generous appetizer to share with tablemates who might select other items from the handhelds section of the menu. The light beer batter fries up crispy, and the side of tangy chipotle ranch dip elevates the rings with a smoky, tart kick. If you prefer to go a little more health-minded, the kitchen can accommodate you if you ask for a side salad ($5.99), even though it’s not officially listed on the menu.

If you have room, the tavern does offer dessert. The chocolate lava cake ($9.99) comes with ice cream on the side, creating a nice contrast between the warm, intensely dark chocolate and cool vanilla flavors. Chocolate syrup ties it all together.

The tavern offers food specials during happy hour from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., welcomes phone-in orders, delivers via DoorDash, and the kitchen often stays open until roughly 11 p.m. weeknights and midnight on weekends.

Auto Inn Tavern & Restaurant’s chocolate lava cake. -LAURA TICHY / FLORIDA WEEKLY