There’s no better people-watching in New York than at Grand Central Oyster Bar. All sorts of diners stop by the subterranean Manhattan seafood emporium as they pass through the historic Grand Central Terminal train station: tourists carting bags from the M&M store, friends catching up at a convenient interborough midpoint, and even a few of that dying breed of Midtown suits who guzzle martinis with clients before catching the 7:32 p.m. back to Connecticut.

They’re all here for platters of bivalves, bowls of chowder, and occasional throwback dishes like an oyster pan roast. The dining room is split into sections that seem plucked from different design eras, sharing the clattering buzz of a cafeteria hall and the aging glamour of old-timey New York. Not everything on the menu holds up, but for a charming, relatively affordable experience in Midtown, this old-timer is hard to beat.

Groups of four can find a table in the main dining room, but smaller parties should opt for the snaking lunch counter, one of the counters, or the sneaky little saloon at the end of the main room.

The menu is long and full of terror — well, full of subpar orders. Stay focused on the holy trinity: oysters on the half shell, french fries, and martinis complete with sidecars. Also remember that it’s closed on the weekends.