It’s easy to spot the steel-outlined neon ‘Eliza’ from blocks away, its gentle rose glow the first beckoning sign of warmth inside this nearly two-and-a-half-year-old Kingston community favorite. Inside, tin ceilings, a ginormous skylight, and plush green banquettes preempt a meal to linger over — a romance of Euro-leaning bistro staples, many redefined by Southeast Asian ingredients or techniques.
• What accompanies the scallop crudo ($18) may change from week to week, but the punchy lime-fish sauce emulsion stays pretty consistent, and that’s a good thing. This is the perfect way to open a meal at Eliza.
• Don’t miss the malt salt fries — scene-stealing and the apt accompaniment for either the juicy roast half chicken with garlic jus ($38) or thick pub burger ($28) with cheddar and pickles.
• The short rib massaman ($32) was my favorite dish of the evening. Somewhere between the slippery ribbons of fresh pappardelle and the velvety coconut curry they were cloaked in, I began to see visions of pad see ew and ragu Bolognese dancing together in my head. Crushed peanuts, a few pickled Thai chiles, and a scattering of cilantro sent this outstanding dish over the edge.
Don’t skip Eliza’s amari list. It’s short but star-studded with lesser-known bottles—read: not somewhere you’re going to find Fernet Branca or Montenegro. We tasted a few, and Bigalet China Amer ($13), a bold amaro heavy on the citrus flavors and earthy bitterness, was a fan favorite.
Sadly, sister market and next-door neighbor Fletcher and Lu closed last fall. Luckily, the grocer’s beloved seeded crackers and house-cured meats live on in Eliza’s menu offerings and at many other local spots like Rosie General and Village Grocery.