Oyster farmer Matt Ketcham instructs participants in a New York Sea Grant oyster opening workshop. (Photo Credit: Stephanie Villani)
I’ve sold thousands and thousands of oysters over the years at New York City Greenmarkets, back when our small seafood company, Blue Moon Fish, had a stall there, but I was never very good at opening them myself. I usually took the easy way out and let my husband, Alex, take care of the shucking duties.
But after I attended New York Sea Grant’s recent oyster shucking workshop, which included a dozen of the tasty bivalves and a brand-new oyster knife, I feel a lot more confident in safely opening the shells of these tough little creatures.
Led by Barry Udelson, Aquaculture Specialist at New York Sea Grant, the workshop paired an oyster farmer — in this case, Matt Ketcham of Peconic Gold Oysters — at a local brewery, North Fork Brewing Company on East 2nd St. in Riverhead.
For $70, participants got a personal shucking lesson with assistance from Udelson and Ketcham, as well as protective gloves, an oyster knife, an insulated tote bag, a dozen oysters (at least) to practice on and eat, a drink ticket donated by the brewery and seafood-related literature instructing how to handle, store and consume oysters, whether raw or cooked.
Surprisingly, I was able to open all of the oysters pretty easily (except for one weirdly shaped shell with a double hinge, which Ketcham quickly popped open in half a second). Sea Grant’s method of inserting the knife in the hinge and pressing until the oyster springs open really worked, much better than going in with your knife at the side of the oyster, which I learned from a friend from New Orleans.
Udelson says “many people enjoy eating oysters but find it too challenging to eat raw oysters at home.” A little practice with the oyster knife may entice you to pick up a dozen or two from one of those roadside stands that dot the North Fork, or one of our local seafood markets. We’ve got close to fifty oyster farms in Long Island, ensuring a fresh, steady supply for shellfish lovers and a chance to support a homegrown industry.
And the opportunity to talk with the oyster farmer and ask about anything you are curious about is a draw, too. Ketcham and I chatted about how the icing over of the bay this winter damaged many of the oyster cages (he showed me photos) and how lots of runaway oyster gear is washing up on beaches all over town. And I learned that the deep cup found on Peconic Gold oysters (good for holding a tangy mignonette sauce or a mixture of garlicky, bacony ingredients to be roasted) is developed by the way they are handled as they grow out.
Both Ketcham and Udelson fielded lots of questions during the session: how long oysters take to grow to marketable size (two years, but a new variety grows quicker than that), how big wild oysters can get (too big to eat in one gulp), how long oysters last in the fridge (7 to 10 days), which direction do they grow (from the hinge side outward, with the shell continuing to thicken), and what other ways they can be eaten (grilled, broiled, sautéed … see Sea Grant’s Beyond Raw pamphlet here).
Oyster Farmer Matt Ketcham and Aquaculture Specialist Barry Udelson at New York Sea Grant’s oyster shucking workshop at North Fork Brewing Company in Riverhead. (Photo Credit: Stephanie Villani)
“Most of the participants said they had never tried to open oysters before this workshop,” says Udelson. “While some struggled at first, everyone eventually had a pile of empty shells in front of them. Plus, a pearl was found!”
But practice makes perfect, and folks had the option to buy a dozen or two Peconic Golds after the workshop ended to keep their shucking skills sharp, while Udelson accomplished his mission to connect oyster farmer sellers directly with retail customers.
New York Sea Grant is a statewide program affiliated with SUNY Stony Brook and Cornell University and is funded through the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. NYSG serves coastal communities through research, outreach and education.
Udelson plans to run a series of oyster shucking workshops throughout the year. The next session will be on April 17 at North Fork Brewing Company with oyster farmer Joe Finora of Hampton Oyster Company.
To sign up or for more information, check the Aquaculture Development in New York website or Sea Grant’s social media.