West Village Basque restaurant Bartolo has only been open for a few months, but still, it feels like it’s been part of the neighborhood for decades, harkening back to the 1920s through 1940s when Spanish-by-way-of-Spain restaurants were flourishing in Manhattan. It’s where chef Ryan Bartlow highlights old-world tastes in these new-world times, which means truly Spanish food, albeit at high prices.
On Mondays, Bartolo is an industry hangout, particularly at the bar, which is reserved for walk-ins. Sometimes, Bartlow will grab a stool himself — during my visit, he was there.
The restaurant offers a variety of sherries from vineyards like Bodegas del Rio (the manzanilla was softly salty) and Bodegas Luis Pérez (a deeper one).
The space is very tight and cozy. Squeeze past the bar to get to the two dining rooms; the one on the left is lined with draped white fabrics and seems better suited for conversations; the one on the right has red walls and seems more lively.
The bathroom off the bar is very, very, very tiny. Opt for the other one, which is slightly bigger.