The interior of Prima di Carne.
The upper end of the Queens kosher restaurant landscape has stayed mostly the same for a number of years. Somehow, one thing that’s been missing is a mainstream steakhouse.
Enter Prima Di Carne. At the location of an old Italian restaurant, Prima Di Carne inherited a location with some nice exposed brick and other features that really contribute to a nice atmosphere that now includes a bar with seating. The night I was invited, a handful of people were eating at the bar and watching the Knicks play on the TV.
That said, the restaurant is a long rectangle with the bar in the front. That leaves the back to be a quiet space to sit if that’s what you need. They also plan to add outdoor seating as the weather gets warmer.
As much as that sounds like a traditional steakhouse, this is still a kosher restaurant. And that means we start our meal with some sushi. And as readers of this column know, when trying to choose a signature roll at a restaurant, the eponymous roll is usually the best. My rule comes in handy once again as the Prima Roll is a great combination of many of your favorite sushi ingredients. It’s spicy tuna, cucumber and avocado on the inside, spicy kani, masago and scallions on top with drizzles of sweet sauce and spicy mayo. Sure, there’s a lot going on, but the result is a really nice assortment of flavors coming together to make some magic.
Pistachio crusted lamb chops
At this point, it’s probably a good idea for me to prepare you for the rest of the journey by pointing out that “Carne” is in the title of the restaurant. So if you happen to be a vegetarian or vegan reading this, you’re pretty much out of luck. This isn’t to say that if you found yourself at Prima Di Carne that you couldn’t find something to eat. I’m just saying that when it comes to what they do best, it’s gonna be fleish.
Grilled veal chop
First up, the Beef Cheek Tacos. While plenty of places have tacos on the menu, the ones here are a little bit more interesting. Instead of using barbeque pulled brisket like you’ll find in many places, Prima Di Carne uses beef cheek meat that has been slow roasted in a guajillo broth for added flavor. That super tender beef is then topped with a nice salsa verde that adds a soft acidic punch to the savory taste of the beef cheek. I’m not usually into the stereotypical items, but this was different enough to draw my attention and I’m glad I ordered it.
Cowboy steak
Next up is a slightly curious plate that is only really an app because of the possibilities of sharing. By far the most famous thing on the menu here is the Miami Ribs. I heard great things before I walked in the door and I am happy to echo those praises. This pile of three-bone flanken comes with an Asian pear salad and roasted potatoes. Honestly, if you want to eat this as your main after ordering another app, you’d get no dirty look from me. The ribs themselves are cooked really nicely and you get a great portion size. The salad that comes alongside is mostly for show, but the Asian pear makes for a nice pairing with the sweetness of the barbeque sauce from the ribs. The potatoes are pretty good and complete this plate with some small bit of carbs just in case this app is your entrée.
Miami ribs
In terms of actual entrées, I’ve got three recommendations for you. Let’s start small and move up the ladder. The Pistachio Crusted Lamb Chops may be on the smaller side but there’s just nothing like a great lamb chop and these are certainly in that category. The trio is served with couscous and tri-color carrots. If you had some substantial appetizers (which I recommend), this plate is certainly enough of a meal. The lamb chops are really nicely charred while still being tender on the inside, the couscous adds some bulk to the plate and the carrots contribute nice color as well.
Beef cheek tacos
If you’re looking for a slightly larger piece of meat, the Grilled Veal Chop might be for you. The first cut chop comes in a traditional bordelaise sauce with a side of truffle mashed potatoes and topped with oyster mushrooms. I’m a sucker for a good veal chop and this one was not only great on its own, but the side dishes contributed to the overall success of the dish. The truffle mashed potatoes were substantial and had truffle flavor both mixed in and small slices on top. The mushrooms mixed well with the sauce from the veal or with the potatoes. There were enough mushrooms to go around for both purposes and a bite with all three components was perhaps the best of the night.
Prima roll
And yet, there’s a chance that you came to a place named Prima Di Carne because you wanted to really eat some meat and there’s always the Cowboy Steak. Sometimes there’s nothing like a big steak and this will certainly scratch that itch. It comes with three dipping sauces (chimichurri, steak sauce and bordelaise) and each is different enough to make it seem like you’re having three different steaks. One thing I particularly liked was that it came with a whole head of roasted garlic. As a particularly big fan of garlic, I enjoyed being able to remove a clove from the head and eat it with a slice of the steak. Any way you slice it (or rather, have them slice it for you), you can’t go wrong with a nice steak.
So if it’s meat you’re looking for (with some sushi on the side), check out Prima Di Carne. Whether you live in Queens and can’t wait to make yourself at home or if you live in the surrounding areas and want to try something new, Prima Di Carne is there to roll out the welcome mat. Just make sure you bring your appetite.
Prima Di Carne
Meat – Steakhouse – Waiter Service
Sunday: 4-10 p.m.
Monday-Thursday: 5-10 p.m.
(718) 650-3744
PrimaDiCarne.com
178-01 Union Turnpike
Fresh Meadows, New York
Vaad Harabonim of Queens (VHQ)
Nati Burnside is a freelance writer living in Fair Lawn and a man of many interests. He can be reached at [email protected].