New York’s cosmetology and hair-styling schools must soon start teaching how to deal with kinky and curly hair if they want to be able to license students.
New rules from the New York Department of State require the updated coursework — designed to curb racial discrimination — to be in place by September.
New York cosmetology schools must teach kinky and curly hair care to license students by September. okrasiuk – stock.adobe.com
“I have curly hair. Not everyone has straight hair. The new training at the beauty schools will benefit those who don’t have straight hair,” said state Assemblywoman Michaelle Solages (D-Nassau), who co-authored the bill — and noted that when she first got into politics, she was advised to “straighten her hair” to look more professional.
“It’s a form of discrimination,” Solages said of shops that don’t offer the service.
The pol noted that she and her daughter both have had experiences with having their hair mangled in beauty salons.
“The person behind the chair should understand your hair,” the lawmaker said.
Solages co-authored the new law with state Sen. Jamaal Bailey (D-Bronx) in 2023, requiring all hair and cosmetology schools to make “textured”-hair education part of their general curriculum.
The state rules were published earlier this month — about a week after a black woman and her daughter filed a federal discrimination suit against an Ulta Beauty salon on the Upper East Side, claiming stylists there told them they don’t cut “your kind of hair.”
State Assemblywoman Michaelle Solages, co-author of the bill, said it combats discrimination. Los Angeles Times via Getty Images
New York Human Rights Law bars discrimination based on traits associated with race, including hair texture.
In 2024, the state received 622 cosmetology license applications and 89 natural-hair-styling license applications.
Solages said current hair cutters can renew their license without undergoing continuing education, which means they’re not covered by the mandate. The courses will only apply to new students.
The amendments also do not increase the number of study hours required to obtain a license. Instead, the new instruction on natural kinky or curly will be woven into current curriculum hours.
Under the revamped law, the 300 to 1,000 hours of instruction needed for licenses from hair-treatment and cosmetology schools will include:
Ten hours of hair analysis that includes the study of curly, coily, kinky, wavey, wiry and straight hair.
20 hours of treatment and shampooing that includes “Understanding Hair Products as it Relates to Natural Hair Care and Styling” and a “Hydration and Moisture Steam Treatment.”
Much more extensive instruction on hair braiding, including the use of crochet needles and bead threaders, and treating or removing hair extensions.
18 hours on textured-hair-styling services, including treatment of “Curl and Coil Hairstyles,” blow-dry preparation for braid styling and natural hair and ironing natural hair.
State Assemblywoman Michaelle Solages, co-author of the bill, said it combats discrimination. Getty Images
The New York State Beauty School Association said it does not foresee “any significant barriers that would prevent schools from fully complying with the revised requirements within the proposed timeframe” and that “institutions will be able to integrate these changes without undue burden.”
The state has been working on updating its regulations for hair salons for nearly a decade, after the legislature’s 2017 approval of a law that created an “Appearance Enhancement Advisory Committee.”
The panel was tasked with developing recommendations regarding cultural and ethnic awareness for various hair types, including curl patterns, strand thickness and volume.