Kelis, the singer-songwriter behind “Milkshake,” the enduring hit song that defined the early aughts, is actually a big food fan. In fact, the Harlem born-and-raised New Yorker (who now lives in Kenya) trained at Le Cordon Bleu in Los Angeles, has written a cookbook, and even had a food truck and pop-up restaurant at various points.
Recently, she teamed up with mobile payment company Square to film a video featuring NYC restaurants. I spoke with Kelis about her favorite New York restaurants and where she had been dining recently.
What are your go-to New York restaurants?
Kelis: I took [my best friend] to Mamoun’s (Greenwich Village), which is still one of the best falafels in the city, the OG on Third Avenue and MacDougal Street. I remember being in high school when I used to work on the corner, and telling my mom one day, “I found this amazing spot for falafel.” She was like, ‘Mamoun’s? I’ve been going there since the ’70s.” I always get a falafel and shawarma combo, with tons of tahini and the popping hot sauce. It’s all about the combo — sloppy, messy, flavorful.
Taste of Seafood (Harlem) is another old classic that I always go to. You get the fried whiting, candied yams, collard greens, and mac and cheese. They have a deep-fried corn, which is ridiculous.
If I take the family out, we go to Carmine’s (Upper West Side). You know you’re going to get a good Italian wine. I love it for the pizza, because the portions are massive, great family-style stuff. I love everything from the stuffed shells to the manicotti. It’s not fancy. It’s affordable, you can take your family, it’s always packed, but it’s been good forever. We usually went there when we were kids, and you can still go there and get a decent, good Italian hearty meal. That’s dope.
Tamarind (Tribeca), which is always really nice: I like the fried cauliflower. I love seeing their tandoori oven: anything that they’re sticking in there. They have some of the best samosas: so simple but so good. There’s the coconut fish that they do, that’s bomb.
Sofrito (Hamilton Heights) is so freaking good — it’s like Puerto Rican Carmine’s. You know what you’re going to get: It’s not fancy, you’re going to hear freaking “Happy Birthday ” so loud 25 times throughout dinner, and you’re going to get amazing pernil and mufongo.
New York is good for Chino Latino; there is this dope spot, La Dinastia (Upper West Side). For Chino Latino, that’s a great match made in heaven.
Where have you dined recently in New York?
We went to Tatiana (Upper West Side), which was amazing. Rarely do I feel like something lives up to the hype, but I feel like it really did. There were no vegetables on the menu, which was my only pet peeve. We got the chopped cheese and an oxtail dish. It was a great wine list.
Having grown up in New York, which now-shuttered restaurants do you miss?
Georgie’s had one of the best doughnuts I’ve ever had in my life in Harlem.
In Spanish Harlem, there’s a spot called El Coqui that I used to go to, which had the best cochifritos.
Sammy’s Noodle Shop (West Village) closed, but it used to be one of the best noodle bars in New York. It was cheap and easy and delicious.
Ben Van Leeuwen with Kelis. Square
How’d you decide on what NYC businesses to include in your Square video?
I wanted to highlight women, people of color, and just really cool stories. No one ever thinks of Black people when they think of beer, but Black people love beer. Harlem Hops made sense.
I think New York has the best Jamaican food aside from Jamaica and London. Miss Lily’s (East Village) made sense and is led by women chefs.
Ben Van Leeuwen of the ice cream shop: He’s a really interesting, quirky New Yorker. That’s New York: grind it out, get it done.
What makes New York’s food scene so good to you?
New York is the kind of place where you can walk into any random spot and nine times out of 10, it’s going to hit. It’s not pretension; it’s just that New Yorkers have a standard and quality level that is really consistent. That’s what also makes the city really spectacular across the board. People want to do good, and they hustle.
LA is a great city for other things, but it is not a food city. They have a lot of restaurants, but it’s like no one cares about, it’s not a food city. People are there to see people; they serve food, but they’re not really serving food. New York is a food city.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
Family Style Italian Restaurant