STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — Chef Franco Ortega is marking 30 years at Italianissimo in South Beach, one of many anniversary milestones across Staten Island that speak to the staying power of local restaurant owners. His three‑decade run represents a rare kind of longevity in New York City’s notoriously unforgiving dining scene, arriving in a year marked by reflection—from the nation’s upcoming 250th birthday to Staten Island’s 365 years since its first permanent European settlement in 1661.
Before Chef Franco Ortega, the kitchen at Italianissimo was led by Gianvito Fanizza, a chef whose résumé included the once‑famed Café del Mondo in Willowbrook. From that circle — a kind of Staten Island diaspora of Italian cooks — emerged restaurants that would help define an era of local dining, including today’s Italianissimo and Bocelli. It was a passing of the apron that helped preserve an old‑school approach, even as the borough’s restaurant scene evolved.Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri
Located at 107 McClean Ave., Italianissimo has become what Ortega calls a Staten Island landmark, drawing diners from across the region—and former residents who now live out of state—for what many consider old‑school Italian done right.
“I never set out to chase trends,” Ortega said. “I just wanted to cook the way I was taught and take care of the people who walk through the door.”
Italianissimo gets a new look. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)Grit, growth and Italian cooking
Ortega’s journey in the restaurant industry began at the literal bottom. He started as a dishwasher, scrubbing down the kitchen and scraping pots.
“Everything pays off,” he said. “The time went by, and when I look back now, I see a beautiful family and a great business.”
Italianissimo was founded in 1996 by brothers Gianvito and Antonio Fanizza, taking over a space that had previously operated as Il Ponte. When Gianvito Fanizza retired in 2006, Ortega and a partner purchased the business. Ortega later became sole owner, maintaining the traditions established by its founders while introducing southern Italian cuisine from the Puglia region—particularly Bari—to Staten Island diners.
Signature dishes include panzerotti—a mini calzone served in the complimentary bread basket and filled with mozzarella and marinara—a traditional specialty from Bari that Ortega has been serving for 30 years. The menu also features Orecchiette Barese, Sunday sauce, grilled seafood and fried zucchini. Italianissimo is especially known for its house‑made focaccia.
A fish stock comes to a boil.
“Simple is better,” Ortega emphasized.
That philosophy extends to ingredient sourcing. Ortega personally visits fish and meat markets two to three times a week to select the freshest offerings.
“I don’t wait for fish to be delivered,” he said. “I go get it myself. If I wouldn’t eat it, I won’t serve it.”
Rather than relying on rigid specials, Ortega keeps the menu fluid, often building dishes around customer requests. Sometimes guests will call out favorite items — baked clams, stuffed squash blossoms, or the cleansing, bitter bite of endive tempered by a creamy crab dip.
“Let’s say you’re coming with 10 people,” he said. “What would you like to have? That’s how the menu gets built—not just for you, but for everyone joining us that week.”
From baked clams to crab‑filled zucchini blossoms, chef Franco Ortega showcases the seafood classics that have anchored Italianissimo for decades.Degrees of difficulty behind the stove
When asked about his favorite fish to prepare, Ortega pointed to Chilean sea bass for its consistency. Halibut, he said, remains the most challenging.
“It’s very delicate,” he said. “If you overcook it, it’s like eating hard bread.”
Over the years, Italianissimo has drawn a number of notable customers. Asked to name a few, Ortega cited a former New York City mayor and actor Robert De Niro among notable customers, recalling that De Niro kept it simple with white clam sauce, focaccia and garlic bread.
“Nothing fancy,” he said.
The restaurant underwent renovations in recent years and added outdoor dining during the pandemic. Ortega plans to reopen the outdoor deck in the coming weeks with an expanded menu that includes gluten‑free pizza and pasta options.
Ortega’s grandson is just 2 years old, but already seems drawn to the restaurant—especially when his grandfather is close by.Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri
“I consider myself a landmark here thanks to our clientele,” Ortega said. “Staten Island supports you if you respect your customers. They know when something is real.”
Many former Staten Islanders who have relocated to Florida still make Italianissimo a stop when they return.
“Every time they come back, they come here,” Ortega said.
Ortega is planning a community event in June to mark the milestone and, looking ahead, hopes to continue the tradition. These days, he’s savoring a quieter moment at the restaurant, watching his grandson—his “big blessing,” he said—already curious about the kitchen.
Ortega celebrates his 30th and salutes America’s 250th with fried calamari and an edible flag. Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri
A note from the food editor: Have any anniversaries in food and restaurants you want to commemorate? Email here and we’ll figure it out—silvestri@siadvance.com.