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Restaurant Review: Sunny’s SteakhouseThe beauty of Sunny’s is that you can walk in without a reservation and concentrate on the pleasures of a martini and superb steak frites. Tejal Rao, a chief restaurant critic for The New York Times, reports in her review on the South Florida steakhouse.
This week, I reviewed Sunny’s in Miami. It’s a big, sprawling, 220-seat steakhouse that wraps around a twinkling banyan tree and feels a little bit like a party that started long before you got there and will still be going after you’re tucked into bed. Big cuts of beef start and end on two charcoal grills, glazed as they’re cooked, taking long, luxurious rests between steps. The meat was beautifully cooked, neatly sliced even and rosy all the way through to its crisp, burnished edges. It was deeply seasoned and unexpectedly rich with the flavor of smoke. Sunny’s is a steakhouse, but it’s not a historical re-enactment of the New York steakhouse. It started as a popup during the pandemic, when the restaurant industry was getting really creative with its business ideas, and also when diners were feeling a lot of things, including isolation and a desperation to come together and celebrate. And that feeling really seems to have carried through.
The beauty of Sunny’s is that you can walk in without a reservation and concentrate on the pleasures of a martini and superb steak frites. Tejal Rao, a chief restaurant critic for The New York Times, reports in her review on the South Florida steakhouse.
By Nyt Cooking
November 7, 2025