This New York Fashion Week served up something the city has in swathes: confidence. There was theater (in Thom Browne’s human-sized insects), drama (of the kind the CFDA surely hopes we’ll forget), and a lot of old fashioned glamour. Several designers reminded us that when a brand does away with chasing virality or shallow spectacle, and instead celebrates their singularity, fashion magic can still exist. The week was less about designers feeling the pressure to make something new and never-before-seen, and more about embracing what works and has always made them stand out. If you don’t truly know yourself, you can’t dress yourself, either.
Brands leaned into their signature codes — whether it be designer of the moment Henry Zankov and his simultaneous refresh of Diane von Furstenburg’s classic wrap dress and his own namesake label, Zankov, or Eckhaus Latta throwing a loft party complete with mesh outfits meant for misbehaving and freaky PVC footwear gliding across confetti-sprinkled hardwood floors. Thom Browne meanwhile invited guests to theoretically touch grass with a gargantuan gardenscape presentation complete with impeccably tailored insect-inspired outfits. It was a welcome reminder that all of this is meant to be simultaneously fabulous and fun.
There were still moments of good old fashioned runway enchantment. Carolina Herrera marked 45 years in business with models gracing a runway in the spectacular David H. Koch theater filled to the brim with planted tulips. Daniella Kallymeyer served up tailored bar jackets, sultry knits, and sumptuous satin blouses — a refreshing interpretation of aspirational minimalism that was far more interesting than any form of “quiet luxury.” Sandy Liang continued to stress that unapologetic femininity is far from a fault (and that she truly understands a downtown girl’s penchant for polka dot bombers and tutu midi skirts). And industry darling Rachel Scott of Diotima and Proenza Schouler kept on playing with sartorial sex appeal, using eye-catching texture, bold print work and fabulously furry detailing with aplomb.
Below are some of the looks –– and unfiltered moments –– we saw.
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