Originally conceived as a true wine-first counterpoint to its sibling restaurants, Stars is the new East Village wine bar from the team behind Claud and Penny. Opened by partners Chase Sinzer and Joshua Pinsky, the compact bar is unusually serious about wine, with more than 1,000 bottles on hand and over 20 by-the-glass options. The room is cedar-wrapped and gallery-like, with a horseshoe zinc bar, custom mahogany stools, and artwork by Isamu Noguchi and Frank Stella on the walls.

The 88 Under 88 section is a smart place to start, especially if you want something drinkable and well-priced. (The list changes often.) If you’re there with a friend, ask literally anyone who works here — they all know so much — to guide you into a bottle from deeper in the cellar.

This isn’t a dinner spot. Treat it as a pre- or post-meal stop: have a glass or two here, then walk to one of the many nearby restaurants, or come after dinner for a bottle and conversation. It’s best enjoyed perched at the bar, with nowhere else you need to be.

Stars is strictly walk-in, and with just 12 seats, timing matters. Arriving closer to opening makes it easier to snag a spot at the bar and actually engage with the sommeliers — the experience is much better when you’re not waiting for someone to finish a glass.