STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — At Café Con Pan on Port Richmond Avenue, colorful rings of Rosca de Reyes were stacked a dozen high on warming racks by noon, filling the restaurant with the yeasty fragrance of freshly baked sweet bread topped with dried fruit. Owner Elizabeth Lopez and her staff sliced the traditional Mexican cake into three-inch wedges while espresso brewed nearby and bakery boxes were packed for delivery.
Deliveryman Jonathan Rivas said the scene at 137 Port Richmond Ave. mirrored the preparations taking place across Mexican communities for the Catholic tradition of Three Kings Day on Jan. 6.
For the Epiphany, the restaurant and bakery dedicate table space to deliveries and to-go orders. (Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri)
At Cafe Con Pan, the ovens run almost nonstop for three days as bakers work to meet the demand, said Rivas.
The business now operates three locations—Port Richmond, New Dorp and Brooklyn—with the Port Richmond shop serving as a distribution hub extending through New Jersey and up to the Bronx.
The bread’s signature topping, known as pasta, is a simple blend of flour, butter, and sugar that bakes into its iconic crackled shell.(Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri)
“Rosca is like a special bread,” Rivas said, explaining that each ring contains small plastic dolls, or muñequitos, representing the baby Jesus. “When you cut the cake, if you get the king, then next time you bring the food and drink.” That next gathering is Candlemas on Feb. 2, when families traditionally serve tamales.
Jonathan Rivas packs up boxes of the festive bread slated for delivery around the Big Apple and beyond. (Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri)
Rosca sizes vary by the number of muñequitos baked inside: nine in a large ring, six in a medium, and four in a small. The moment of cutting the Rosca creates a thrill as each person slices while others watch to see who discovers a doll.
Mexican custom dictates that whoever finds one must provide food—typically tamales—or drink for the group on Candlemas. The one who gets no baby Jesus doll, said Rivas with a smile, “They get to eat for free. They don’t have to bring anything.”
This is what the muniquitos looks like when it appears in a slice of Rosca de Reyes. (Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri)
Rivas explained that Three Kings Day also centers on nativity scenes known as Los Nacimientos. The tradition stems from the Gospel of Matthew, which recounts the journey of the wise men—Melchor, Gaspar and Baltazar—who traveled by horse, camel and elephant to deliver gold, frankincense and myrrh to the infant Jesus. Catholic tradition marks their arrival on Epiphany.
Bakery owner Elizabeth Lopez, right, helps slice and pack bread as it cools. (Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri)
Café Con Pan is well known on Staten Island for its wide menu of authentic Mexican dishes and homemade baked goods. The neighborhood spot offers home-style fare ranging from huevos rancheros and huevos con chorizo to more than 30 varieties of tortas, as well as tacos with fillings such as suadero, lengua, carnitas, pastor, tripa and shrimp. The menu also features chilaquiles, enchiladas, tamales and flautas.
Three Kings Day is celebrated at Cafe Con Pan on Port Richmond Avenue. The colorful cakes are sold by the large and small ring, and by the piece.(Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri)
Rosca de Reyes is sold by the slice or as small and large whole cakes. The bakery and restaurant are open daily from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Outside of the Three Kings tradition, the bakery counter offers fresh breads, pan dulce, custom cakes, tres leches, a variety of pastries—and tamales.