Romantically lighted and tastefully decorated, Le Bilboquet looks as fresh as when kit opened in 1986.
John Mariani
For obvious reasons, Le Bilboquet has been the victim of its own success, not just at its Manhattan flagship on East 60th Street but at its offshoots in Sag Harbor, Dallas, Palm Beach and Denver. The dining room is a very beautiful and romantically lighted, with a sophisticated ambience and very good classic French fare. Having opened in 1986, it is one of the enduring icons of New York’s bistros––now being mimicked by newcomers like Chez Nous, Le Veau d’Or and Chez Fifi.
Le Bilboquet’s owner, Philippe Delgrange, says even he is surprised to still be up and running for four decades.
Photography Donnelly Marks
It has a crowd as faithful and returning as any restaurant’s in New York, and the clientele dresses well (more on that later) and seems to have, in Scott Fitzgerald’s words, “voices full of money.” The faithful call it “Bilbo,” as they once called ‘21’ Club “the Numbers” and Le Cirque “the Circus.”
And that’s what sticks in New York’s food media’s craw. Over all those years Le Bilboquet has been sniffed at as being snooty, restrictive and demanding of its guests. As a result––and probably to owner Philippe Delgrange’s delight––those media have largely ignored the restaurant, including the New York Times, which seems never to have reviewed it. The cranky New York Post deemed Il Bilboquet the “snobbiest restaurant in New York” in 2017, and New York Magazine warned readers, “a word to the wise — if the thought of a menu printed entirely in French, or even just the thought of a long wait on the weekend, seems daunting rather than exciting, this might not be your spot.” (The menu now does provide English translations.)
Flowers are part of the charm of dining at Le Bilboquet
Le Bilboquet
Yet being ignored by the popular press has done nothing to hurt Le Bilboquet’s business. When it opened it had a mere 35 seats; now, in a larger space taken in 2013, it seats just over 100. Delgrange admits, “We never thought the party would continue this long, but no one seems to want to go home. Or maybe … they’re already home.” It’s a lovely sentiment.
And that seems to define a place that is more comforting than it is disdainful to anyone. I am certainly no regular but on a recent Monday night I was very cordially greeted by a manager happy to give me and my guest, whom I was interviewing, a quieter table in the rear corner. Otherwise, it’s not as loud as a lot of other restaurants this size.
Flakey pastry covers tuna tartare
Le Bilboquet
The room itself glows, the white paper over tablecloths reflects light from the globe chandeliers, the pointillist wallpaper is amiably pretty and a mirrored wall opens the space out.
The Executive Chef is Camille Martin, Normandy born, whose menu is not long but should appeal to anyone, from those who just want one of several salads, including a big Cobb or a Caesar, to one of the soups of the day. There is also a lobster-less bouillabaisse and mussels marinières with excellent frites.
We ordered a tuna tartare, silky and very fresh, accompanied by slices of good crusty French bread, though the butter in the ramekin was much too cold to spread.
Cajun chicken has been a signature dish at Le Bilboquet since opening.
Le Bilboquet
I was delighted to see an appetizer of tender sweetbreads enclosed in delicate puff pastry and light mushroom sauce––a good early autumn dish.
From the very beginning Le Bilboquet’s signature dish has been Cajun chicken, which is well seasoned, mildly blackened and comes in a beurre blanc and lavished with frites. Perhaps it was added to the menu after chef Paul Prudhomme popularized the dish in the 1980s and the rage for Cajun took hold in America. In any case, it’s a good if not exceptional rendering, with more of those frites.
Perfect and plump Dover sole is one of the classics at Le Bilboquet
John Mariani
Dover sole was featured that night, which may well be shared by two people for $100––not cheap but not as high as Chez Fifi’s less impressive example at $148 or some others around town. More important, this was one of the finest, fattest, heftiest Dover soles meunière I’ve ever had outside of Paris, impeccably cooked and served with a whole cup of clarified butter. The meat slipped easily from the bones to provide four plump, juicy fillets, as hearty a main course as if we’d ordered a skirt steak. Also perfectly rendered was piping hot gnocchi à la Parisienne, which so often comes as a gluey mass, but here the choux pastry dumplings emerged on their own under a very rich cream and cheese gratin.
A vacherin of meringue and ice cream.
Photography Donnelly Marks
For dessert a crispy meringue vacherin enclosing raspberry sorbet and a dense, dark chocolate mousse with whipped cream made for fine classics.
Menu prices are in line with most upscale bistros in town but below some others, with the priciest dish (aside from the Dover sole) at $55.
Le Bilboquet’s 250-label wine list has moderate depth and breadth, with an emphasis on Bordeaux, but not only are prices high but there are few bottles under $100, including a pedestrian Chablis for considerably more.
So, then, Le Bilboquet may or may not be for you, depending on your personal comfort within such an environment and on your chosen wardrobe. Of course, you could always pick up a little something at nearby Bloomingdale’s or Oscar de la Renta to wear before dining, which may do wonders for your self-confidence. In any case, you will be cordially greeted and dine very well. And upon leaving, you will be sincerely asked if everything was to your liking.
LE BILBOQUET
20 East 60th Street
646-869-8660
Open for lunch and dinner daily.