Thomas Gainsborough (1727–1788), Mary, Countess Howe, 1763–64, Oil on canvas, 94 15/16 × 60 3/4 in. (243.2 × 154.3 cm), English Heritage, Kenwood House, London. © Historic England / Bridgeman Images
Beginning February 12, The Frick Collection in Manhattan will present its first special exhibition dedicated to the English artist Thomas Gainsborough, and the first devoted to his portraiture ever held in New York.
Displaying more than two dozen paintings, the show will explore the richly interwoven relationship between Gainsborough’s portraits and fashion in the eighteenth century. The works included represent some of the greatest achievements from every stage of this period-defining artist’s career, drawn from the Frick’s holdings and from collections across North America and the United Kingdom.
The trappings and trade of fashion filled Gainsborough’s world — in magazines and tailor shops, at the opera and on promenades — and his portraits were at the heart of it all. This exhibition invites visitors to consider not only the clothing the artist depicted in his paintings, but also the role of his canvases as both records of and players in the larger conception of fashion: encompassing everything from class, wealth, labor, and craft to formality, intimacy, and time. Recent technical investigations also shed light on Gainsborough’s artistic process, including connections to materials — textiles, dyes, cosmetics, jewelry — that fueled the fashion industry.
Thomas Gainsborough (1727–1788), Grace Dalrymple Elliott, 1778, Oil on canvas, 92 1/4 × 60 1/2 in. (234.3 × 153.7 cm), The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo courtesy The Metropolitan Museum of Art / ArtResource
“Gainsborough: The Fashion of Portraiture” is organized by Aimee Ng, the museum’s Peter Jay Sharp Chief Curator.
“The spectacular and at times, to modern eyes, absurd fashions in portraits by Thomas Gainsborough continue to fascinate viewers today. The appeal of these demonstrations of taste, status, and wealth persists in tension with increased recognition, over the last few decades, of the injustices that made such extravagance possible. This exhibition necessarily deals with clothing and personal attire, while exploring how fashion was understood in Gainsborough’s time, how it touched every level of society, and how portraiture itself was as much a construction and invention as a sitter’s style,” said Ng.
The exhibit will run through May 11.
