written by ALEX KESSLER 
photography JOHN TODS

This story appears in i-D 375, The Beta Issue. Get yours here.

I flew from the United Kingdom to Thailand with one objective: to meet the women of Miss Tiffany’s Universe. No temples. No detox retreats. Just high heels, high stakes, and the kind of televised Thai pageantry that, if you were raised in Thailand like me, embeds itself in your childhood consciousness with the ceremonial gravity of a royal procession——only with more rhinestones. Once a year, every screen in the country flickers to lavender: trans women in full eveningwear, fielding existential questions live on national TV. Somewhere between camp and cultural milestone, it’s nothing short of national theatre. 

Miss Tiffany’s Universe isn’t your average beauty pageant——it’s an institution. (Naturally, the trophy room is literally called the “Legendary Room.”) Officially founded in 1998, the pageant was born out of the Tiffany’s Show cabaret in Pattaya, which has been a cornerstone of Thailand’s tourism-industrial complex since the ’70s. For decades, this glitter-soaked revue was one of the few formal stages available to Thai trans women——a place to work, perform, and, crucially, to be seen. What began as nightlife has evolved into primetime: an annual broadcast watched by everyone from provincial aunties to closeted teens (a.k.a. Me when I first started tuning in around 2003). 

I took the two-hour journey from Bangkok to Pattaya and arrived at the Tiffany Show theatre——a mirrored, purple-silver sanctum of maximalism. Imagine if Versailles were redone by a K-pop set designer with a Swarovski sponsorship. Inside, racks of archival costumes lined the corridors: sequined bodysuits, capes that could double as parachutes, heels arranged with military discipline. I half-expected the mannequins to break into choreography. We arrived at 9 a.m., but even at that early hour the contestants were in full glam, hair shellacked, lashes curled, and highlight radiant. They’d been in makeup since 3 a.m. and looked like they’d been perfectly airbrushed into existence. I spoke to each of the contestants——some in Thai, others confidently in English. The atmosphere was competitive, yes, but also tender in that rare way only pressure can produce. Underneath the glam is a foundation of sisterhood. Lipstick was passed around. Dresses were de-wrinkled. One girl pinned another’s stray lock of hair without a word. 

What stayed with me wasn’t just the aesthetic precision——though they were, categorically, works of art——but the substance Beneath. These weren’t performances in search of applause. They were expressions of resilience, sharpened and shaped by years of navigating a world that still confuses visibility with acceptance. One contestant, touching up her already-perfect face, said dryly, “We’ve been up since 3 a.m., and we still look snatched.” 

Napat Palasee, 
stage name: Sunray, 30
I went from… watching beauty queens on TV to owning the Top 10 stage.
My must-have is… sunscreen.
I stay grounded with…  Southern Thai dance and culture.
I admire…  myself. My dream is my compass. 

Priyakorn Pornprom,
stage name: Andoi, 29 
My signature move is… one hand on my hip and a calm gaze. 
I admire… my mother, who gave everything to raise me on her own.
My favourite Thai food is…  papaya salad, sour and sweet, just like life.
I feel most alive…  being on stage as myself—proud and confident. It was the most beautiful nightof my life. 

Maxy Harnsongkram, 
stage name: Maxy, 25
Pageants are…  home. Backstage—sleepless, heart-filled—that’s where I fell in love.
My proudest moment is… designing the Best Evening Gown for Miss International queen 2022.
My pose is…  still and observant. It’s instinct.
I admire…  my community, my sisters, my family.

Kanticha Deetaris, 
stage name: Mheepooh, 18
As the youngest contestant… I carry big dreams for little girls watching.
I admire… Miss Saruda. She inspired me to rise and rise again.
My walk is… full of life.
My favourite Thai food is… Khanom Jeen—spicy, sweet, and full of character. 

Passamon Kraitana, 
stage name: Nooknick, 25
I used to be… behind the scenes. Now, I am the scene.
My proudest prize is… a message from a young trans girl: “You made me feel seen.”
My signature move is… arms wide like wings.
I admire… past me. The girl who never gave. 

Phumtada Suwattana,
stage name: Punpun, 21
I applied to Miss Tiffany’s… on a whim. I followed my heart and it paid off.
My proudest moment is… becoming a Top 20 finalist with no team.
My favourite Thai food is… Som Tum——spicy, bold, alive.
I admire… my future self, the woman I’m becoming. 

Nutchanara Khongpattananon, 
stage name: Narabank, 30
I’ve been in… hundreds of pageants. Miss Tiffany’s is my heart.
My signature is… my smile.
Before I walk… I pray. Always.
I admire… my mum. And me.

photography assistants WANLOP BANCHUEN, AUDOMSAK AEMAUSIN & DANUWAT BENJAKHAN
location TIFFANY’S SHOW PATTAYA CO., LTD. & MISS TIFFANY’S UNIVERSE ORGANISATION